 Made some body parts, Need some advice |
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| TargaToy |
 Jul 23 2011, 10:07 AM
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-NONSOLIS RADIOS SEDIOUIS FULMINA MITTO-  Group: Members Posts: 714 Joined: 26-March 10 From: DelMarVa Peninsula Member No.: 11,509 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region 
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Had to create the transition from the driver's door threshold to the striker plate as well as the leading edge of the front fender. I didn't realize that latter portion was nothing but braze and bondo until I started grinding the paint back to get my cut lines.
The lower section of the rear fender (directly under the sail) is still free from the car. I screwed and clamped it in place while I made the pieces pictured. Once it's welded back onto the car, I am going to have very limited access to the back side of the repairs. What I WANT to do is treat/seal the back side of the repair which will be the most prone to be hit with moisture/debris from the tire.       That said, here's my issue: I do not yet own a paint gun, nor epoxy primer. I'm going to Ospho the back side of this area and then I hoped to prime, seam seal, and undercoat it (do not care about not having body color back there--just want "tough") with the fender still unattached to the car. I know it's frowned upon but is there something in a rattle or brushable product I could treat the area with to make it impervious to the elememts later? |
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| rick 918-S |
Jul 24 2011, 06:32 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 21,239 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region 
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Clean anything you can reach with a wire brush, use Metal Ready, Ospo or what ever you have to convert anything you can and can't reach. Then you can apply a self etching primer from a rattle can. It has acid in it and creates a chemical bond. The rattle can stuff It not the best product but for the hobbiest it works fine. Then go to the auto body supply store and get brushable seam sealer. The stuff stinks like glue and is thick. Cover all the seams and weld seams you can reach. Then cover the seam sealer and any bear self etching primer with some type of paint that will aid in water proofing the work. Any rattle can gloss enamel will work these days. Then use rubberized under coating over the entire repair to prevent rock chips. Be sure to let everything dry before the next step.
POR= paint over rust. It does not bond well to clean metel. It relies on the conversion of the rust to stick. |
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| SirAndy |
Jul 24 2011, 11:14 AM
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#3
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 42,469 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Jul 24 2011, 05:32 AM)  POR= paint over rust. It does not bond well to clean metel. It relies on the conversion of the rust to stick. Unfortunately, that doesn't work either. Putting POR15 over rust will *not* stop the rust. BTDT. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
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Posts in this topic
TargaToy Made some body parts Jul 23 2011, 10:07 AM
Andyrew Rust-oleum and por 15 can be applied with a paint ... Jul 23 2011, 10:41 AM TargaToy Will rubberized undercoating stick to POR15? I ap... Jul 23 2011, 11:02 AM
rjames
Will rubberized undercoating stick to POR15? I a... Jul 23 2011, 02:09 PM PanelBilly You need to make friends with the local body shop ... Jul 23 2011, 01:31 PM Andyrew Rubberized undercoating will stick to anything....... Jul 23 2011, 02:24 PM SirAndy Whatever you do, don't put POR15 over bare met... Jul 23 2011, 03:04 PM Jon Fernandes :agree:
Stay away from POR, and the such. A good ... Jul 23 2011, 03:32 PM saigon71
Had to create the transition from the driver... Jul 24 2011, 05:29 AM TargaToy Thanks, Rick (and everybody else). I was really h... Jul 24 2011, 02:44 PM |
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