Front end changeover in progress..., 8/8- Alignment woes |
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Front end changeover in progress..., 8/8- Alignment woes |
jk76.914 |
Sep 9 2010, 07:45 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States |
I'm finally getting rid of the 4-to-5 lug adapters and doing a real Porsche 5 lug front suspension. Contrary to normal practice, which is normal for me, I guess, I'm installing real 914/6 struts with new Bilstein inserts. I bought the parts about 5 years ago on eBay, and the kit was all-inclusive, with freshly painted struts and new ball joints, bearings, rotors, pads, and brake hardware, and rebuilt M calipers. My excuse is I didn't know any better at the time, or I'd have looked for a later 911 set with the later bearing type, but alas, I own it now and everything is in real nice shape.
I think I'm good to go on parts and tools, but I'm trying to find out the torque requirement for the lock bolt for the ball joint. It's an M10 x 30mm x 1.5mm pitch, going into steel threads in the strut; presumably the lower part of the strut, below the tube, is forged. Looks like an M10 grade 12.9 bolt is good for 50 ft-lbs, but I don't want to chance stripping out the threads. Nor do I want the BJ to pop because it's too loose. Does anyone know the torque spec? Thanks! Picture below- PS- any tips for installing this type of strut? Thanks! |
jk76.914 |
Aug 7 2011, 07:40 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States |
Built a big T-square to set toe. Before I started the project, I measured the height off the floor to the outer end of the control arms at 5.25". Two 4x4's were cut to this length, and the car lowered onto them. This approximated ride height, but with no tires so access was easy and I didn't have to worry about settling the rubber every change. I made sure the control arm front edge was flush with the front surface of the 4x4, so I could set the T-square bridging across them. A small carpenter square from the cleat on the T-square to the brake disk, adjust the tie rod so fore and aft are square, flip the T-square to the other side, repeat, and done. It would have worked better if I had done it before the caliper was mounted, to give me a longer base, but it was OK.
I had it aligned on Thursday, and it came up -.79 degrees on the right, and -.52 degrees on the left. Not very good, but it got me to the alignment shop. Alignment shop was interesting- next post. |
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