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skaufmann |
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Blissfully Ignorant ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 103 Joined: 26-May 11 From: San Diego - College Area Member No.: 13,123 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
My '72 that was passed to me through family has been parked for 8+ years. I'm going to assume everything in the brake systems needs attention. While I'm not necessarily being cheap, I am trying to contain costs.
Questions I have: 1 - Should I and how do I flush the brake fluid? What product should I should I use and how much should I expect to need? 2 - I've read breaking loose the bolts to replace soft lines can result in ruined hardlines. What's the best method (product and/or procedure) to avoid damage? 3 - Should I assume the Master Cylinder needs to be rebuilt? Is there a way to test other than seeing if it works after everything else is taken care of? If it's bad can it reasonably be rebuilt or does it require a professional? 4 - Calipers: I know these need to be rebuilt. I'm contemplating trying to rebuild myself. I'm also contemplating sending them off to be done professionally. Any advise on which way I should go would be helpful. Thanks ahead of time all you crazy teeners. Because everyone likes pictures, here it is just before being rescued. Also see signature for link to gallery. ![]() |
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swl |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,409 Joined: 7-August 05 From: Kingston,On,Canada Member No.: 4,550 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
Been thinking a lot about this over the last couple of weeks Scott. I've been going at it piecemeal - one little project at a time. Days turn into weeks, weeks turn into months, months turn into years. I think it would have taken much less time all round if I had of committed to doing it all in one big restoration project. Your brakes, fuel system, steering - are all suspect at this age of vehicle. If you have the space and patience I would really recommend doing everything at once. Looking back at it I should have:
Dropped the engine Lightened the car for handling purposes - remove trunk lids, bumpers, fuel tank, maybe seats. Anything with signifcant weight. If you don't have a lift get the car up in the air - at least 2 feet. Makes life underneath much nicer. Somewhere, probably years ago, there was a thread with a guy who put the car up on four wooden structures on wheels. Great idea. Commit to dropping the stearing rack. Do turbo tie rods and rebuild the steering bushings. Threads exist to guide you. Pull the entire brake system from calipers to brake cylinder. Get some of that nice copper/nickel brake lines from the folks in England. Get some new soft brake lines. You can rebuild your own brakes but it can be a little frustrating the first time. Eric Shea offers a great service to do this if quality is more important to you than the 'learning experience'. The master cylinder is a tough call. If it is the original you need to assume that it is probably on its last legs. General advice seems to be replace (around $300) rather than rebuild. New fuel lines front to back is also high on the priority list. If nothing else do all the rubber lines but consider a set of Stainless Steel fuel lines to replace the nylon ones. While the engine is down replace all the vacuum lines. Check the range of the CHT and replace if necessary. Check the function of the AAR and address as required. This may seem like a huge list but if you do it all at once it won't be too bad. Once done you have the major safety components addressed. The car may still look scruffy. The engine may be cranky and tired. But at least you will be able to drive it confidently knowing you can stop, steer and the damned thing isn't going to catch on fire. Pretty good starting point for a long relationship with a great car. |
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