Signal Orange 914-6 3.8, (was: rebuild after Willow Springs bump) Options

[siverson]

I've been slowly sorting through the mess I made for myself about a month ago at Willow Springs, and have 1 quote to fix the dent.

I'm trying to decide between (A) repairing my chassis, and (B) getting a new chassis and moving all my parts over.

I feel ridiculous even considering scrapping my chassis when I see some of the crazy "rustoration" threads here, but the fact is it's probably going to be about the same cost to straighten this chassis versus buying a donor chassis/car and building it back up.

I'm going to take this "opportunity" to fix/improve some other things on the car while I have it all apart, but I need to figure out my chassis plan first. Here are my options:

A: If I repair my current chassis ($10k - $12k):

- Find front clip
- Remove Brad Meyeur kit (to be replaced with Engman kit)
- Remove/cut existing reinforcing tubes
- Celette bench, weld new clip
- Fix front right fender/flare (it was also damaged, that strut broke)
- Add Engman kit
- Add back reinforcement

B: Build up a donor car/chassis and move over all my parts ($10k - $15k):

- Find a donor car/chassis
- Remove all rust/prep chassis. Rust repairs.
- Add 4 steel GT flares
- Maybe also put this one on a Celette bench first too to make sure it's straight.
- Add Engman kit
- Add chassis reinforcement
- Lots of small modifications I had already made: lower drivers floor/seat, close up a bunch of unused holes/make it cleaner, lots of seam welding, dash modifications, etc, etc

... plus full R&R on the front suspension/etc, but I need to do that regardless of my chassis plan.

With A it "my" original car, but with B I actually think I might end up with a nicer end result because I'm going through almost everything again, but it's probably a little more money and A LOT more work for me (versus 95% of A is just me writing a check). Am I off on my prices?

So, what do you think? A or B?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

-Steve

p.s. And... the other strange factor is that this car/chassis was my first car and I've had it for almost 20 years. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) But, given how much I've already modified the car, most of those "original" parts aren't there anyways. I think if I got a new chassis and moved over all my parts, it would still feel pretty much like "my" car... I'm not super attached to that specific VIN... Or am I? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Twise]

Maybe this point of view will help:

Let's assume you want to buy a 914. You found 2 identical cars that are just what you were looking for and priced the same. The only difference is their history:

- One car was completely rebuilt using some beautiful parts from a concurs car that was damaged in an accident.

- The other car was severely crashed, cut in two and a front clip from some other damaged car was welded in. The combined chassis was measured and aligned using the best available tools.

I would pick the first one without blinking and I'm sure all those who commented on this thread will do the same.

Why would anybody prefer something that was damaged when a perfectly good alternative costs the same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ?

And from my past experience, trust me, that old car of yours will never be the same.
Sorry about the old car but I believe it's for your own benefit.

This is the sort of misconception I have to deal with on a daily basis. It sounds like you had a bad experience in the past, or someone close to you had a bad experience. Collision shops like mine fix cars all day long. We are well trained at what we do and we do it correct. I would not attempt to fix something that was not going to be in better condition when I was completed. Steves car looks alot worse than it is. The forward section of the apron needs replaced including the headlamp bucket and front body panel. The rest of the pieces can be straightened on a celette bench with RIGID fixtures. Rigid fixtures are just that they are rigid, you cannot manipulate, adjust or fudge them in any way. You must make the car fit the fixtures, not vice versa. I am by no means going to cut another car in half and weld it to the front of Steves car. All metal replaced will be done so along the factory lines and in the same fashion in which it was placed there to begin with. When the job is completed, it will be very difficult to tell what if any repairs ever took place. I know there are many operations out there that perform the type of work you are basing your bias on, but we are not one of them. I would urge all of you to strongly investigate any shop you would have perform collision repairs for you. Are they certified (ICAR, ASE, Manufacturer)? How long have they been in business? Do some homework. I will be the first to admit that in my industry, I am a rarity. I have over 150 years of experience under my roof. All of them specializing in GERMAN collision repair. We are certified by Porsche, Mercedes and Audi. Most important thing is reputation. We value ours and will not compromise it.