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Cool914 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 25-January 11 From: Ontario Member No.: 12,627 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
Taking apart a fresh rebuilt 2.0 and i noticed the heads qere on wrong side. The one with the head temp sensor spot was on 1,2cylinder side. possible reasons, problems?
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Cool914 |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 25-January 11 From: Ontario Member No.: 12,627 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
I don't have any history on the engine, was told when I bought it that it was rebuilt recently, but looks like it was probably just "pressure washed and painted". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
I will be replacing the clutch disc obviously, I was just asking about the pressure plate since it didnt look bad at first glance. Yes, I will try an electron microscope photo next time for SirAndy. Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface? |
malcolm2 |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,749 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
I don't have any history on the engine, was told when I bought it that it was rebuilt recently, but looks like it was probably just "pressure washed and painted". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) I will be replacing the clutch disc obviously, I was just asking about the pressure plate since it didnt look bad at first glance. Yes, I will try an electron microscope photo next time for SirAndy. Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface? I went thru the same type questions about my case. "Do I need to Align Bore, should I Deck the case?" And I had no local Type 4 machine shop. A type 1 guy took a look but did not measure anything. He noted this on mine: With the case split, look at the mating surfaces above and below the bearing. The round areas where the thru bolts go. The areas around the middle bearing (#2?) were very smooth, like there had been movement. the other bearing areas still had machine marks from the factory. I finally found a small shop to measure for me. Turns out the case bore was straight. Probably need to find a type 4 or VW shop to measure stuff for you. |
malcolm2 |
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#4
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,749 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface? Len gave me a shade tree trick. Take the circle bearing without the thrust, #3 i think. Put it into each of the three bearing locations in each case 1/2. If if fits nice and tight, and you see no light under or around it, you are doing pretty good. Also you can put #1 and #4 (or #3) bearing back in leaving the middle out. place the crank in each case half and use a dial gauge placed on the the crank and turn the crank and watch the gauge. Harbor Freight has a dial guage and a stand for pretty cheap. That checks for a bent crank. 3rdly, mock up your crank and bearings with alittle oil on the bearing and torque up the case, stick you hands in and try to turn the crank. you should get 360 degrees of easy spinning. these are just warm and fuzzy ways to see what is up. Try to find a type 4 shop. BTW from your bearing pictures, I think the PO told you the truth. Those are fairly fresh bearings. |
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