Rear Quarter Panel Repair Ideas Options

[TargaToy]

So once again I find myself going where the sun don't shine.

Eventually, I plan to post the receipt from where the body shop charged the interim owner for "replacing quarter panel"...but that's fun for another day.

Here's my question: Am I correct that, from the factory, the little void in the point at the rear of the quarter panel (above the tail light) is left empty--or full of spray foam--and that there's a very large glob of seam sealer supposedly preventing tire-slung moisture from finding the foam?

I had to open mine up all the way and I'm toying with actually welding in a custom baffle in front of that pointed tip so that I could seal it up tight from the front side of the baffle. I would do this as part of the process when I fit in the new fender section.

What I want to do is make sure moisture can't get into that rear point and fester.

Anybody who's reworked the rearmost part of the fender/light socket, what have you done???

[rick 918-S]

I'm of two minds here when it comes to that pocket. I could agree with sir Andy if I lived on the gold coast unless you drive near the beach and salt water. That is one of the most diffecult areas to clean out and derust without cutting it open like yours. The trouble is over time the calk will release and moisture gets between the calk and the panel. I think todays urothane seam sealers are far superior to what Porsche used in the early 70's. I would take all the proper steps to etch, seal and paint the inside and then reseal the pocket with modern seam sealer. But that's just me.

[TargaToy]

I'm of two minds here when it comes to that pocket. I could agree with sir Andy if I lived on the gold coast unless you drive near the beach and salt water. That is one of the most diffecult areas to clean out and derust without cutting it open like yours. The trouble is over time the calk will release and moisture gets between the calk and the panel. I think todays urothane seam sealers are far superior to what Porsche used in the early 70's. I would take all the proper steps to etch, seal and paint the inside and then reseal the pocket with modern seam sealer. But that's just me.

The Ospho cured over night so the rust looks "halted" now. I can get some primer on it now but I'll be welding all around the general vicinity when the fender skin goes on--not good for sealer. Are you suggesting making the repairs, maybe some more Ospho, spraying primer/paint into the point, and then packing it back full with sealer?

By the way, for this and for other areas like inside jack posts, does anybody sell a rattle can paint with a red tube like you get with starter fluid/WD-40?. I was thinking that if I had a small hole on the inside of the trunk, I could get some decent amounts of paint sprayed into the point where I couldn't reach otherwise.

[kertwerks]

By the way, for this and for other areas like inside jack posts, does anybody sell a rattle can paint with a red tube like you get with starter fluid/WD-40?. I was thinking that if I had a small hole on the inside of the trunk, I could get some decent amounts of paint sprayed into the point where I couldn't reach otherwise.

Summit makes a paint for the inside of frame rails. Has a long tube that you can draw down the frame rail while spraying.
Not available in CA I bought some here in NV and took it to my buddy for his Miata project.
Kurt

[TargaToy]

By the way, for this and for other areas like inside jack posts, does anybody sell a rattle can paint with a red tube like you get with starter fluid/WD-40?. I was thinking that if I had a small hole on the inside of the trunk, I could get some decent amounts of paint sprayed into the point where I couldn't reach otherwise.

Summit makes a paint for the inside of frame rails. Has a long tube that you can draw down the frame rail while spraying.
Not available in CA I bought some here in NV and took it to my buddy for his Miata project.
Kurt

Thanks for the tip. I'll check that out.