Panel stiffness, Door metal thickness Options

[porschefile2010]

I wouldn't mind some input from the USA if possible.
Down here in NZ 914's are a rarety and my 75 2.0 is the only one I have really been close to and there are no others handy to check out.
I am bare metalling the car to go back to original- so paint strip, rust kill, etch prime etc.
I have noticed when I have been scraping the paint off the panels ( it's had three repaints)that the door panels have a hell of a lot of flex. The rear guards have a small amount, the fronts not too bad, but the doors! Are they all like this. There doesn't seem to be any side bars inside and they flex probably as much as 1/4 inch in the softest patches.
The doors are absolutely rust free and original paint right back to the first coats so it doesn't look like there has been any bodgy repairs.
So, question is this normal and if so filling and fairing must be tricky as it seems a difficult job bogging a flexi surface and then boarding it down to a fair surface?
Thanks

[porschefile2010]

Thanks Tom. That's really helpful to know. The AB's made hard work of the final and a win is a win I guess. I agree the game has changed bigtime too. I played seriously mostly late 60's and 70's and doubt I could play the modern game. Wingers in rucks? Not likely!
I have been using a chemical stripper but even so it still flexs a bit. I am going to etch prime stage and then the local painter will take over. One of the fenders needs some stretching and smoothing out and the doors will need to be sand bagged I imagine.
Regards
Richard

[Tom_T]

Thanks Tom. That's really helpful to know. The AB's made hard work of the final and a win is a win I guess. I agree the game has changed bigtime too. I played seriously mostly late 60's and 70's and doubt I could play the modern game. Wingers in rucks? Not likely!
I have been using a chemical stripper but even so it still flexs a bit. I am going to etch prime stage and then the local painter will take over. One of the fenders needs some stretching and smoothing out and the doors will need to be sand bagged I imagine.
Regards
Richard

Richard,

I've also found that you can gently push some doors/lids/panels with an open hand on the back side (not backside (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) to return to shape - if you accidentally push it in while sanding/working/etc. on it. But be careful & don't force it if it doesn't want to pop back easily.

There's also a heat shock method using the metal's "memory" to make them spring back to original stamped shape by heating bare metal with a blow torch (after all paint stripped from the area), & then "shocking" with cold water. My Uncle used to do it on his Ford Model A Hot Rods, back in the 60's when I helped him work on them some - but it's best left to "the masters" if you've not done or seen it done before.

I didn't pick up the "nasty habit" of Rugger here in the States until college in 1970-74, then played our Div I Club B's & some A's to 85 (your Div IV or V equivalent I'd guess (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ), then a Grad School club 2 years, & then Old Boys until `96. We had quite a few Kiwi teammates over the years, as well as ABs, Islanders - esp. from American Samoa, Brits, Irish, Scots, Welsh & even an ex-Foreign Legion Frog officer!

So I played thru the changes & didn't like it much because it took too much of my defensive game away as a Scrumhalf. As a Halfback & also spent a good deal of time at the bottom of rucks dodging aluminum spikes too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Wingers today are the size of 5/8ths, 3/4s & Loosies!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Your Blacks were way overdue for the cup, after 24 years coming in #1 seed to not! Although I was hoping the Welshmen would make to the finals - especially after the ABs lost so many at 1st 5/8th! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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