Won't Fire up with L-jet, WTF!!! Update on Page 2 post 35 Options

[Black22]

I have a new 1911 with L-jet. It was formerly a 1.8L stock engine that ran good. Trying to do the break in cycle but have no fuel.

I have spark and air, but injectors won't fire.

I can however jump the relay and get the fuel pump to run. I can also move the flap manually at the AFM and that will also trigger the pump to run with all the stock wiring in place.

I tried all the tests at the manuals.type4.org website. It passes all the tests.
Only one test is questionable though.

** Measure the resistance between ECU plug terminal 20 and system ground at terminal 17. The reading should be 52-78 Ohms. Mine reads 5.9 Ohms. That would suggest the dual relay is bad, so I install a brand new relay and that one reads 6.9 Ohms. WTH?

What am I missing?

[pilothyer]

You can determine if the pump is running with the key on start position by looking for voltage at the pump while cranking.....you may need to get a partner to crank the engine while you look for voltage at the pump connector.

[Black22]

You can determine if the pump is running with the key on start position by looking for voltage at the pump while cranking.....you may need to get a partner to crank the engine while you look for voltage at the pump connector.

Will do...What will this info tell me (other than if there is voltage present)?
More specifically, what will that point to as suspect?

[pilothyer]

You can determine if the pump is running with the key on start position by looking for voltage at the pump while cranking.....you may need to get a partner to crank the engine while you look for voltage at the pump connector.

Will do...What will this info tell me (other than if there is voltage present)?
More specifically, what will that point to as suspect?

If the pump runs when you manualy open the AFM flap with the key at the on position, this test will verify that fuel pump will also run with the key in the cranking position. (since it is hard to hear over the starter)
When the ignition switch is turned on it energizes the dual relay which provides battery voltage to the control unit and injection valves. When the key is further turned to the crank position the relay gives voltage to the fuel pump, If the engine starts, voltage continues to be provided to the fuel pump through contacts in the AFM. If the engine fails to start and the key is released to the on position the voltage to the pump is opened by the AFM flap contacts.

[timothy_nd28]

You can determine if the pump is running with the key on start position by looking for voltage at the pump while cranking.....you may need to get a partner to crank the engine while you look for voltage at the pump connector.

Will do...What will this info tell me (other than if there is voltage present)?
More specifically, what will that point to as suspect?

If the pump runs when you manualy open the AFM flap with the key at the on position, this test will verify that fuel pump will also run with the key in the cranking position. (since it is hard to hear over the starter)
When the ignition switch is turned on it energizes the dual relay which provides battery voltage to the control unit and injection valves. When the key is further turned to the crank position the relay gives voltage to the fuel pump, If the engine starts, voltage continues to be provided to the fuel pump through contacts in the AFM. If the engine fails to start and the key is released to the on position the voltage to the pump is opened by the AFM flap contacts.

Cool, good to know that. He has already stated earlier that when he depresses the AFM flap, the fuel pump does indeed turns on. So the fuel half of the dual relay seems to work. I think the next step would be trouble shooting voltages on the dual relay that feeds the Brain (ECU). Looking at the schematic, I would keep the dual relay in their electrical sockets and check pin (88z) to gnd. It's tied directly to the battery, and you should have 12vdc at that terminal at all times. If you have power at that pin, then go ahead and turn the ign switch to the on position and check pin (88b) to gnd. Again you should have 12vdc with the key switch on. If this is the case, then continue to the Brain ECU connector. Check pin 10 on the connector to gnd, (with the ign on). You should have 12vdc. If you have power there, then put your red multimeter lead on pin 10 on the ECU connector, and put the black meter lead on pin 5, then pin 16, then pin 17. Those last 3 pins are all grounds, you should have 12vdc on each. If you have voltage on everthing I just said, then I think your brain is faulty.

[Black22]

You can determine if the pump is running with the key on start position by looking for voltage at the pump while cranking.....you may need to get a partner to crank the engine while you look for voltage at the pump connector.

Will do...What will this info tell me (other than if there is voltage present)?
More specifically, what will that point to as suspect?

If the pump runs when you manualy open the AFM flap with the key at the on position, this test will verify that fuel pump will also run with the key in the cranking position. (since it is hard to hear over the starter)
When the ignition switch is turned on it energizes the dual relay which provides battery voltage to the control unit and injection valves. When the key is further turned to the crank position the relay gives voltage to the fuel pump, If the engine starts, voltage continues to be provided to the fuel pump through contacts in the AFM. If the engine fails to start and the key is released to the on position the voltage to the pump is opened by the AFM flap contacts.

Cool, good to know that. He has already stated earlier that when he depresses the AFM flap, the fuel pump does indeed turns on. So the fuel half of the dual relay seems to work. I think the next step would be trouble shooting voltages on the dual relay that feeds the Brain (ECU). Looking at the schematic, I would keep the dual relay in their electrical sockets and check pin (88z) to gnd. It's tied directly to the battery, and you should have 12vdc at that terminal at all times. If you have power at that pin, then go ahead and turn the ign switch to the on position and check pin (88b) to gnd. Again you should have 12vdc with the key switch on. If this is the case, then continue to the Brain ECU connector. Check pin 10 on the connector to gnd, (with the ign on). You should have 12vdc. If you have power there, then put your red multimeter lead on pin 10 on the ECU connector, and put the black meter lead on pin 5, then pin 16, then pin 17. Those last 3 pins are all grounds, you should have 12vdc on each. If you have voltage on everthing I just said, then I think your brain is faulty.

I'll try that, Thank you. I was looking for a thread that had a test for the ECU. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
I do have voltage of 12v on 88z and 88b as you stated above.