LED Conversion - snafus? Options

[mcbrems]

Hey All,

I swapped all of my bulbs for LEDs from Autolumination and/or
superbrightleds, and have encountered some unexpected issues. Replacing the
turn signal flasher was a known. I tried TimK's hack on the CF13 GL-02
flasher, and when installed and engaged, it just sat there, although the
hazard flashers worked fine (it seems to work on the same relay). I noticed
this aftermarket "LED" compatible relay design leaves out the "C" ground
pin, so I have a different one on order from Autolumination that has it.
When I raise my headlights, the tachometer dials up to 3-4K and then returns
to rest. My dash instrument lights have also been replaced with tiny LEDs
to match the originals, but they only flash once briefly when the light
switch is pulled. My blue high beam indicator is lit when the parking
lights are on, and my license plate lights never come on.

I picked up a 1974 color wiring diagram from Prospero's Garage (
http://stores.ebay.com/Prosperos-Wiring-Di...sid=p4340.l2563 ) and
noticed that many of the wires that connect to the computer are tied
together. I cut that part of the harness off and tied off all of those
wires individually (see image). I'm wondering if I need to reconnect some
of those wires to preserve the original circuit path.

<http://914electric.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/elect_danglies.jpg>
http://914electric.files.wordpress.com/201...ct_danglies.jpg

Does anybody have similar experiences? Also, is there a good source for the
factory color wiring diagram (Prospero's diagrams do not give terminal
designations for any switches - i.e. 56A, 56, C, 32, etc.).

Much thanks for any help.

(I was informed by Mikey at 914Rubber that there is another markb, so from
now on I will be:)
MCBrems

[Dave_Darling]

Dang, your picture is big!! No wonder you couldn't upload it here...

Grey/brown are the reverse lights. Short those two together and the reverse lights should come on.
Fat red is always hot.
Brown is always always always ground. Always.
The fat yellow with a red stripe gets +12V when the key goes to "start".
Blue goes to the alternator warning light.
Black/purple is the tach signal wire.
Black/red is the coil power wire.
Green/red is the oil pressure light sender. (I think. Could be the oil temp sender wire, but I think that one is green/black.)
Not sure about the two solid green wires or the white wire. White is usually fuel injection related though.

--DD

[mcbrems]

Dang, your picture is big!! No wonder you couldn't upload it here...

Grey/brown are the reverse lights. Short those two together and the reverse lights should come on.
Fat red is always hot.
Brown is always always always ground. Always.
The fat yellow with a red stripe gets +12V when the key goes to "start".
Blue goes to the alternator warning light.
Black/purple is the tach signal wire.
Black/red is the coil power wire.
Green/red is the oil pressure light sender. (I think. Could be the oil temp sender wire, but I think that one is green/black.)
Not sure about the two solid green wires or the white wire. White is usually fuel injection related though.

--DD

Resuscitating a year-old thread! I'm getting to the final stretch of my EV conversion, and am now spelunking into the wiring harness. This is what I discovered about the above:

There are two red primaries that are always hot, regardless of the key switch.
There is a black 12 gauge wire that is only hot when the key is on.

I thought for sure the coil wire (black/red) would also be hot when the key was on,
but it is not. That doesn't seem right.

I also expected at least the alternator warning light (blue) to also be hot when the key is on, but all wires are cold except for the black and two reds.

I will dig back into it tonight, with meter and wiring diagram in hand, but any thoughts here are welcome.

McB