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turk22 |
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#1
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Treetop Flyer ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 735 Joined: 27-July 12 From: Cincinnati OH Member No.: 14,725 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
All,
I am ready to address some surface rust in my trunk. In looking thru a variety of threads on the subject I have a couple of questions. First the problem area: ![]() ![]() These are some of the tools I have, various brushes (steel/stainless steel/brass), Wire Wheel, Sanding disks, and air tool. ![]() And from APS Tower Paint, two rattle cans, one of 1K Etching Primer, and one of 1K L80E Custom mixed paint: ![]() My goal is a short term rust abatement, prior to a more full scale respray in the coming years. I belive I have to: -use the brushes and wire wheels to remove all the rust scale and paint from the area(s) I need to address (feather the edges to blend in with the good paint?) -clean up the area.. What to use prior to laying down the primer, just denatured alcohol, or some more specific product for pre-paint. -lay down a couple coats of the etching primer (how many coats?) , (How long to wait before color, 24hours?). - lay down a couple of coats of the color (how many coats?) - not sure after that what I need to do to blend or buff the painted surfaces with the original paint. If I'm missing any important steps, please let me know. thx, Turk |
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turk22 |
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#2
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Treetop Flyer ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 735 Joined: 27-July 12 From: Cincinnati OH Member No.: 14,725 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Do you have a sand blaster? You can take duct tape and heavy plastic and mask off the trunk, insert the sand blaster in the plastic and blast the rust without making a mess all over the shop and car. You don't even need a hood over your head to do it. When your done, unmask the area and vac up the sand. Then use your metal conditioner per the instrucitons of the product label before priming and painting. I so agree. Even a cheezeball HF blaster (not the spot blaster, the 5 gallon tank type) is light years better than all the sanding/grinding/chemicals in the world. By your 5th job, you've spent that much on disks alone. Yea, I spent some time looking at them today, may have to run over to HF, and see what they look like. My issue is space... Not sure my wife is down with my idea about adding a third bay to the garage... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hands.gif) (Maybe I can start with a carport, and then just 'finish it'...) |
rohar |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 924 Joined: 25-October 08 From: spokane Member No.: 9,685 Region Association: None ![]() |
Do you have a sand blaster? You can take duct tape and heavy plastic and mask off the trunk, insert the sand blaster in the plastic and blast the rust without making a mess all over the shop and car. You don't even need a hood over your head to do it. When your done, unmask the area and vac up the sand. Then use your metal conditioner per the instrucitons of the product label before priming and painting. I so agree. Even a cheezeball HF blaster (not the spot blaster, the 5 gallon tank type) is light years better than all the sanding/grinding/chemicals in the world. By your 5th job, you've spent that much on disks alone. Yea, I spent some time looking at them today, may have to run over to HF, and see what they look like. My issue is space... Not sure my wife is down with my idea about adding a third bay to the garage... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hands.gif) (Maybe I can start with a carport, and then just 'finish it'...) I don't have space issues, but I still push the hulk out of the garage for blasting. A light breese is an awesome advantage when blasting. Even if you have a seperate space for blasting, the dust in the air makes it real hard to see sometimes. This isn't a problem outside. Oh, and if you stop by your local ACE, they'll have a whole inventory of rubber plugs. One of them will fit in that little hole. |
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