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ss6 |
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#1
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fun city... ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 261 Joined: 2-February 03 From: Western Connecticut Member No.: 221 ![]() |
I occasionally get the old grinding gear noise (usually into 1st or reverse), and 3rd sometimes doesn't want to drop in too easily. Tranny was "freshened" about 3000 mi ago.
I replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and cable when I took the tranny out. What is a little weird is the cable adjustment is all the way up the threaded rod despite all this new stuff. Am wondering if the shifting issues are related. I've seen references to needing to "jack up" the clutch lever fulcrum with a washer. When I had the tranny rebuilt, I put it back in the way it came out, ie no washer. Anybody have any experience in this area? Adding the washer means dropping the !@#$ tranny again, and CV joint grease is not my favorite hair gel, even if it does hide the gray. |
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Zeke |
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#2
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Never left, but not right.... ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 392 Joined: 26-January 03 From: Long Beach CA Member No.: 197 Region Association: None ![]() |
OK, there are a lot smarter people around here than me on clutches. But, let me throw my 2 cents in. Maybe I'm lazy, but I hate the long threaded cable end. I put a sleeve on the thing before the two nuts go on. That way I can adjust the clutch cable all the way down past when it starts to slip if I want to. But the main reason is to save my fingers twisting the damn nuts on.
Secondly, if the operation of the clutch arm is is the opening and not hitting either end, I see no need for the washer or the dime. I found, however, that I did need one washer to establish the operation in the center of the opening. I was still close to the end of the threads on final adjustment. I have lots of adjustment left with the sleeve, and fingers that are not sore. |
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