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> Oil Cooler torque value?, What's the final word on this...
brenz
post Oct 1 2012, 09:17 AM
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Ok after searching World, Club and PP it seams the oil cooler (4-cyl. 2.0) is anywhere from “tight”, 5 ft-lbs, 11 ft-lbs and even 18 ft-lbs.

I changed my seals (engine is out), put the washers on the proper order, and it will torque to about 9 ft-lbs maybe and after that just keeps squashing the seal. Haynes book says not to squash the seal (I guess the hole closes up and restricts the oil flow).

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brenz
post Oct 1 2012, 05:52 PM
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QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 11:17 AM) *

Ok after searching World, Club and PP it seams the oil cooler (4-cyl. 2.0) is anywhere from “tight”, 5 ft-lbs, 11 ft-lbs and even 18 ft-lbs.

I changed my seals (engine is out), put the washers on the proper order, and it will torque to about 9 ft-lbs maybe and after that just keeps squashing the seal. Haynes book says not to squash the seal (I guess the hole closes up and restricts the oil flow).



Nobody... Am I over-thinking this??
Engine's going back in soon and I'm just trying to avoid any hang-ups.
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ChrisFoley
post Oct 2 2012, 11:00 AM
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QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 06:52 PM) *

... Am I over-thinking this??

Yes, you are overthinking it.
The cooler makes metal on metal contact around the studs, so you won't crush the seals.
Just tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet or 10mm box wrench - no need to put a torque wrench on the nuts.
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brenz
post Oct 2 2012, 12:47 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Oct 2 2012, 01:00 PM) *

QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 06:52 PM) *

... Am I over-thinking this??

Yes, you are overthinking it.
The cooler makes metal on metal contact around the studs, so you won't crush the seals.
Just tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet or 10mm box wrench - no need to put a torque wrench on the nuts.


That's the explanation I needed. Thanks Chris! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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