Ok after searching World, Club and PP it seams the oil cooler (4-cyl. 2.0) is anywhere from “tight”, 5 ft-lbs, 11 ft-lbs and even 18 ft-lbs.
I changed my seals (engine is out), put the washers on the proper order, and it will torque to about 9 ft-lbs maybe and after that just keeps squashing the seal. Haynes book says not to squash the seal (I guess the hole closes up and restricts the oil flow).
Full Version: Oil Cooler torque value?
QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 11:17 AM) 
Ok after searching World, Club and PP it seams the oil cooler (4-cyl. 2.0) is anywhere from “tight”, 5 ft-lbs, 11 ft-lbs and even 18 ft-lbs.
I changed my seals (engine is out), put the washers on the proper order, and it will torque to about 9 ft-lbs maybe and after that just keeps squashing the seal. Haynes book says not to squash the seal (I guess the hole closes up and restricts the oil flow).
Nobody... Am I over-thinking this??
Engine's going back in soon and I'm just trying to avoid any hang-ups.
Maybe you can find it at http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/
Bump....
QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 06:52 PM)
... Am I over-thinking this??
Yes, you are overthinking it.
The cooler makes metal on metal contact around the studs, so you won't crush the seals.
Just tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet or 10mm box wrench - no need to put a torque wrench on the nuts.
What Chris said.
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Oct 2 2012, 01:00 PM)
QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 06:52 PM)
... Am I over-thinking this??
Yes, you are overthinking it.
The cooler makes metal on metal contact around the studs, so you won't crush the seals.
Just tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet or 10mm box wrench - no need to put a torque wrench on the nuts.
That's the explanation I needed. Thanks Chris!
One of the manuals, I think it's the Haynes, says to put the thick washers on before the cooler, which is WRONG and will make the cooler pee oil. Put the cooler on, the washers and then the nuts.
(where's the 1st hand experience or BTDT smilie???)
(where's the 1st hand experience or BTDT smilie???)
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