 Oil Cooler torque value?, What's the final word on this... |
|
|
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
|
  |
| brenz |
 Oct 1 2012, 09:17 AM
Post
#1
|
|
Member  Group: Members Posts: 56 Joined: 10-March 10 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 11,451 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region  |
Ok after searching World, Club and PP it seams the oil cooler (4-cyl. 2.0) is anywhere from “tight”, 5 ft-lbs, 11 ft-lbs and even 18 ft-lbs.
I changed my seals (engine is out), put the washers on the proper order, and it will torque to about 9 ft-lbs maybe and after that just keeps squashing the seal. Haynes book says not to squash the seal (I guess the hole closes up and restricts the oil flow). |
   |
 
|
| brenz |
Oct 1 2012, 05:52 PM
Post
#2
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 56 Joined: 10-March 10 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 11,451 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 11:17 AM)  Ok after searching World, Club and PP it seams the oil cooler (4-cyl. 2.0) is anywhere from “tight”, 5 ft-lbs, 11 ft-lbs and even 18 ft-lbs. I changed my seals (engine is out), put the washers on the proper order, and it will torque to about 9 ft-lbs maybe and after that just keeps squashing the seal. Haynes book says not to squash the seal (I guess the hole closes up and restricts the oil flow). Nobody... Am I over-thinking this?? Engine's going back in soon and I'm just trying to avoid any hang-ups. |
|
|
|
| Mike Bellis |
Oct 1 2012, 06:04 PM
Post
#3
|
|
Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None 
|
Maybe you can find it at http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/
|
|
|
|
| sfrenck |
Oct 2 2012, 09:59 AM
Post
#4
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 492 Joined: 28-February 10 From: Wilmington, DE Member No.: 11,411 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
|
Bump....
|
|
|
|
| ChrisFoley |
Oct 2 2012, 11:00 AM
Post
#5
|
|
I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,923 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None
|
QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 06:52 PM) ... Am I over-thinking this?? Yes, you are overthinking it. The cooler makes metal on metal contact around the studs, so you won't crush the seals. Just tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet or 10mm box wrench - no need to put a torque wrench on the nuts. |
|
|
|
| McMark |
Oct 2 2012, 12:12 PM
Post
#6
|
|
914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
|
|
|
|
| brenz |
Oct 2 2012, 12:47 PM
Post
#7
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 56 Joined: 10-March 10 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 11,451 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Oct 2 2012, 01:00 PM) QUOTE(brenz @ Oct 1 2012, 06:52 PM) ... Am I over-thinking this?? Yes, you are overthinking it. The cooler makes metal on metal contact around the studs, so you won't crush the seals. Just tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet or 10mm box wrench - no need to put a torque wrench on the nuts. That's the explanation I needed. Thanks Chris! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
|
|
|
| IronHillRestorations |
Oct 2 2012, 02:52 PM
Post
#8
|
|
I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,716 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None
|
One of the manuals, I think it's the Haynes, says to put the thick washers on before the cooler, which is WRONG and will make the cooler pee oil. Put the cooler on, the washers and then the nuts.
(where's the 1st hand experience or BTDT smilie???) |
 |
|
|
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 9th May 2024 - 02:30 AM |
Invision Power Board
v9.1.4 © 2024 IPS, Inc.