1973 914 2.0L original owner Options

[FastFebut]

Just putting the word out there...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-914...e#ht_839wt_1167

[jela5958]

According to Hagerty's Valuation Tool a '73 concourse (Condition 1) 2.0 pegs out at $31K. Condition 2 cars (former concourse) peg out at roughly $23K.

If the documentation is there to authenticate that every nut & bolt is original or factory correct, then it's worth the money. Authentication starts with a COA, then certification from a bona fide Porsche authority or restorer, and then ownership history documentation. If the owner has ALL of that then the car is worth somewhere between $23k and $31K ... if any of that documentation is missing, it doesn't matter how flawless the car, it's currently only worth somewhere between $14K and $23K.

Granted, if someone's willing to pay $25K or more, great for the seller but that doesn't make the car a concourse car or worth the money paid for one.

[Tom_T]

According to Hagerty's Valuation Tool a '73 concourse (Condition 1) 2.0 pegs out at $31K. Condition 2 cars (former concourse) peg out at roughly $23K.

If the documentation is there to authenticate that every nut & bolt is original or factory correct, then it's worth the money. Authentication starts with a COA, then certification from a bona fide Porsche authority or restorer, and then ownership history documentation. If the owner has ALL of that then the car is worth somewhere between $23k and $31K ... if any of that documentation is missing, it doesn't matter how flawless the car, it's currently only worth somewhere between $14K and $23K.

Granted, if someone's willing to pay $25K or more, great for the seller but that doesn't make the car a concourse car or worth the money paid for one.

A couple of clarifications are of note here.

1.) PCA Zone 8 rules are only that 75% of interior, exterior, etc. be original to the car as built & left the factory - not 100%.

2.) "Documentation" of every nut & bolt being original is not required, as it is usually judged by physical inspection, and it really only comes up under challenge at Parade level for close cars in the final phase, which is not usually the case.

The more accurate test is "period & maker correct" - especially for cars which are actually driven & not a permanent museum piece. This is true even in non-PCA concours circles, and certainly not what Hagerty means by #1 & #2.

3.) #2 is for an older restoration or preservation prep/condition, & they compete in concours all the time at #2 level cars.

4.) I agree that in most circumstances the seller should not only get a COA on a car of this level & survivor/originality condition, but also fix the little stuff. However even PCNA says that the window sticker & original documentation trumps their often inaccurate COAs (I speak from firsthand experience unfortunately), and they'll even give a discount on the COA if you supply a copy of the window sticker (which IIRC this car has).

I would also expect the seller in this class & price to repair the center console & AC, etc. to perfect running order, or to be flexible on the price.

In this case - a family grieving the loss and trying to raise money to travel cross-country for a veteran's funeral - I wouldn't expect that "every t dotted & i crossed" (no I don't have crossed eyes! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ). So the prospective buyer(s) & seller would need to come to mutually agreeable terms with the family.

BTW - a prospective serious buyer could probably call PCNA with the VIN, engine & transaxle number & explain the situation & request a pre-purchase verification that it is indeed numbers matching, & tell them that they'd buy the COA as soon as the deal closed & they have official title. PCNA should do this for a prospective buyer, and has done so in the past.

.

Matt - The new pix are great, and if a prospective buyer has a PPI done - then go along with the car & get some additional underside pix while the car is on the lift for the PPI - or ask for a copy of the buyer/prospect's pix.

As of now, I'd add a good clear pic with flash looking down into the Hell Hole under the batter tray down into the firewall/side-frame juncture, & a few of the front & rear suspension mounts of it in your driveway.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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