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chrisg |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 63 Joined: 20-December 03 From: Paso Robles, CA Member No.: 1,455 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
OK, I've searched and I'm tired of going through old threads so excuse me if this has been done too many time before.
I've been here for a while off and on and really hope to have time to get my car back on the road some day while I still have reflexes and my wits about me so I can drive. I am constantly thinking about how I will build it. I need more counseling in the motor department. Educate me again about what it is that make building a type 4 cost so damn much? I see where parts are becoming scarce and there is the usual machining and balancing to be done and maybe I am ignorant to building an aircooled VW motor, but damn! I'd love to keep my car with an aircooled motor, be it VW or Porsche (fantasy), but I also want torque and hopefully FI (carbs seem so archaic, not to mention all the ethanol problems we experience; my carbed motorcycles hate the crap, I'm tied of cleaning jets!) A six is very alluring, but every thread tells me it is out of my budget and I really am OK with keeping the Type 4. A 2056 w/ fi cam (most likely built by McMark) is really my most likely route but wonder if the cost vs. satisfaction will be there. A 2270 sounds more tempting to me, but then there is the fi problem (cost) My real question is why does even the 2056 cost so damn much? or am I just not realizing how bitchin' a $5-6K 2056 w/factory fi will be. I've only driven my GA 2.0 w/ l jet, and it was foot on the floor slow. I keep going back to the Suby conversion at that point but it just seems wrong and the radiator set ups I've seen just don't sit well with me. Keeping it aircooled just seems like the right thing to do. Am I just being cheap? |
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wndsrfr |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,449 Joined: 30-April 09 From: Rescue, Virginia Member No.: 10,318 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Your original post has something revealing...
"I've been here for a while off and on and really hope to have time to get my car back on the road some day while I still have reflexes and my wits about me so I can drive. " At age 64 I had the bug to start doing DE's and registered for my first one with a bone stock 1.7. Then I spotted "Buttercup" for sale here and went that way instead. It's a 2270 stroked out to 2316 and is sooooo satisfying when folks come asking "That's a six, right?" My advice is to pay attention to the "time" factor and go with a 2270 build. The time and $ to get a six in it is likely much longer -- time that you can be on the track or hauling serious butt on the street. To go 2270, yes, you'll have the expense of a good aftermarket EFI--mega or SDS and you'll enjoy learning about programming it--at least I have. Get the job done by McMark with proper breathing--heads and headers and you won't be able to wipe the grin off of your face when you floor it. If it fails, it'll be mechanical and a complete "rebuild" runs around $1000-$1500---which is rounding error if you have to rebuild any Porsche six. Another way of thinking about the cost of a rebuild is it's about the same as a couple of DE events. No problem.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
rwilner |
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#3
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No Ghosts in the Machine ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 953 Joined: 30-March 10 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 11,530 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
$5k for a professionally assembled type 4 2056 is a steal...last time I checked Mark was still honoring that, but I doubt it will be around for much longer. When I was planning my 2056 a year ago I got very close to 5k in just parts and machine work...and that's NOT including induction (Microsquirt FI, SDS, Carbs, etc).
Add at *least* $1k (you can easily double or triple that) for all the while you're in there stuff -- new rubber seals, full exhaust (you won't be able to stomach bolting up your old rusty junk), refreshing engine tin, incidentals like break in oil, filter, fasteners, upgraded instruments -- need a CHT and oil pressure at a minimum IMO. If you'd like to know what's involved in building a Type 4, check out Van's amazing website documenting his type 4 build. He went down some rabbit holes, but it's a good overview of the process. Also, IMO, a 6 is not an option unless you're willing to re-engineer the car as others have stated -- brakes, suspension, wheels/tires, body etc. It would be comparable in price for you to put a rebuilt type 4 in your car AND find yourself a nice 911SC driver than to put a six in your teener the right way...and you could easily get your money out of one or the other if it ever came to that. Good luck and have fun. Rich |
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