Down In A Blaze Of Unglory - 914s on FIRE!, It can be pretty common, unfortunately. What causes the 914 to catch fire so easily, how to prevent it from happening and what to do if it does happen Options

[tumamilhem]

Has this ever happened to you?





Video of car on fire: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151125433882341


This is an unfortunate, serious reality and real danger for us 914 owners that tragically happens all too often. But why and how can it be prevented?

I'd like to propose three talking points that could help educate other 914 owners to make necessary precautions to preserve their cars - and their lives:


1. What causes fires in the 914 and why are they so common?

2. What precautions may be done to prevent a 914 from catching fire?

3. If your 914 does catch fire, should you try to put it out or should you stay away in case of an explosion?

[nathansnathan]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

[tumamilhem]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

Would these ethanol rated 30R9 lines be the same thing as the SS steel lines?

What kind of clamps should be used (and for what)?

What purpose does sip tying the fuel lines serve?

I'm not so mechanically inclined as you guys, so I'm trying to learn and understand to prevent this from happening.

Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[nathansnathan]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

Would these ethanol rated 30R9 lines be the same thing as the SS steel lines?

What kind of clamps should be used (and for what)?

What purpose does sip tying the fuel lines serve?

I'm not so mechanically inclined as you guys, so I'm trying to learn and understand to prevent this from happening.

Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The deal is that ethanol is like alcohol and will dry out hoses. 30R9 is an SAE rating for fuel hose that has a silicone-like 'flouroelastomer' lining that is resistant. It used to be blue on the inside but it's all just black now, looks like non braided line, so you have to look for 30R9 to be printed - it is for high pressure and it is expensive. You will only find it in english sizes since ethanol is an american problem.

The deal with the clamps is that the slots that worm drive (normal) hose clamps use will bite int the hose ends and make the drying cracking worse there at the ends, that is where they break, fuel lines. Proper clamps don't have as much range of adjustment. The old vw ones have a flange to protect the edges, mercedes ones are alright too. The difference is the slots all the way around.

About zip ties, it is the flopping around/moving that will cause the breaking once the clamps and the ethanol have made the lines brittle.

The worst situation to have is braided line, not zip tied, with regular hose clamps, the fuel filter flopping about right by the coil.

[tumamilhem]

This is a problem for vw buses also, which don't have the plastic lines.

I would say the problem is fuel filters with worm-drive clamps dangling from braided line right next to the coil or plug wires.

I had an inlet banjo come loose on a set of dells, dripping fuel. I actually shorted out the electric fuel pump for the carbs, but no fire.

What you need to start a fire I think is full on spray going onto a sparkplug wire or the coil.

Prevention would include keeping fuel filters out of the engine compartment, using the right clamps, securing fuel lines with zip ties, and running ethanol rated 30R9 lines, besides just replacing the plastic lines in the tunnel.

Would these ethanol rated 30R9 lines be the same thing as the SS steel lines?

What kind of clamps should be used (and for what)?

What purpose does sip tying the fuel lines serve?

I'm not so mechanically inclined as you guys, so I'm trying to learn and understand to prevent this from happening.

Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The deal is that ethanol is like alcohol and will dry out hoses. 30R9 is an SAE rating for fuel hose that has a silicone-like 'flouroelastomer' lining that is resistant. It used to be blue on the inside but it's all just black now, looks like non braided line, so you have to look for 30R9 to be printed - it is for high pressure and it is expensive. You will only find it in english sizes since ethanol is an american problem.

The deal with the clamps is that the slots that worm drive (normal) hose clamps use will bite int the hose ends and make the drying cracking worse there at the ends, that is where they break, fuel lines. Proper clamps don't have as much range of adjustment. The old vw ones have a flange to protect the edges, mercedes ones are alright too. The difference is the slots all the way around.

About zip ties, it is the flopping around/moving that will cause the breaking once the clamps and the ethanol have made the lines brittle.

The worst situation to have is braided line, not zip tied, with regular hose clamps, the fuel filter flopping about right by the coil.

So don't use steel braided line, use 30R9 lines instead? What do they cost and whete can they bevfound?

What kind of hoses and clamps should be used and where can they be found?