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doug_b_928 |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 714 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
I've been reading in anticipation of starting my restoration this year. I've seen posts where some have used a two post lift to remove their engines. I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the engine using a 4 post lift with 32" of clearance between the rails. My 914 is in storage a couple of hours away so I can't measure the width of the engine and tins etc. I'm guessing that 32" is not enough space, but am wondering if there is some (reasonably easy) way that it can be done.
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euro911 |
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#2
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,888 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
If you don't have the clearance between the runways, try this method:
Drive the front wheels onto the lift runways and remove the ramps. Place an appropriate length 4x4 near the rear end, across the runways. Drive or push the car forward enough to align the rear donuts above the 4x4. Raise the lift. (The complete drive train will be hanging off the end of the lift). If not already done, remove all necessary wiring, hoses, etc., then remove the exhaust system. You may want to remove the rear wheels, but it's not necessary. Lower the lift and support the drive train with jack, or a hydraulic table, then unbolt all the mounts. Raise the lift and pull the drive train out of the way. |
doug_b_928 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 714 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
If you don't have the clearance between the runways, try this method: Drive the front wheels onto the lift runways and remove the ramps. Place an appropriate length 4x4 near the rear end, across the runways. Drive or push the car forward enough to align the rear donuts above the 4x4. Raise the lift. (The complete drive train will be hanging off the end of the lift). If not already done, remove all necessary wiring, hoses, etc., then remove the exhaust system. You may want to remove the rear wheels, but it's not necessary. Lower the lift and support the drive train with jack, or a hydraulic table, then unbolt all the mounts. Raise the lift and pull the drive train out of the way. This is a very interesting idea. I have a jack that sits between the rails. So, instead of a 4 x 4, I could drive the car onto the lift, and with the jack in the furthest rearward position, align the rear donuts to the jack, then raise the jack. Then raise the lift. Then next question is, I know the weight on the lift should be evenly distributed, would doing it this way be enough weight distribution on the front of the lift to prevent it from tilting backwards? I would only raise the lift to the first lock, but I think the first lock is about 24" from the floor. |
euro911 |
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#4
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,888 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
This is a very interesting idea. I have a jack that sits between the rails. So, instead of a 4 x 4, I could drive the car onto the lift, and with the jack in the furthest rearward position, align the rear donuts to the jack, then raise the jack. Then raise the lift. I'll try to get over to the shop tomorrow or Thursday and will snap some pix ...Then next question is, I know the weight on the lift should be evenly distributed, would doing it this way be enough weight distribution on the front of the lift to prevent it from tilting backwards? I would only raise the lift to the first lock, but I think the first lock is about 24" from the floor. |
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