New Hoosiers and my suspension, What is going on? |
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New Hoosiers and my suspension, What is going on? |
ww914 |
Mar 23 2013, 07:46 PM
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#41
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914 Convert Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 29-September 11 From: Central Coast, CA Member No.: 13,621 Region Association: Central California |
Today at the track, with my new Hoosier A6's, I was lifting the inside front tire. I had installed 180 lb springs, took off the rear sway bar and tightened up the front 19mm Tarrett just a little. Everyone at the track told me that I needed beefier springs in the back. Well, I have 220 lbs springs, shall I try them? Shall I leave the sway bar off? Should I soften or tighten the front sway bar? Oh, I am running 205/15 on 5.5 rims. I am looking at 7" rims to get the patch better. Any other recommendations?
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ChrisFoley |
Apr 7 2013, 08:50 AM
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#42
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,934 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
Are you allowed to slot the strut towers to get more negative camber up front?
What's your ride height? Lowering the car a quarter inch will give you more negative camber. Did you make your measurements with your weight in the drivers seat? I would start with the a/s bar adjusted to the middle. I would set toe at zero front and rear. Toe in at the front is fine to compensate for stock tie-rods but doesn't benefit handling. Toe out at the front improves turn in at the expense of high speed stability. Toe in at the rear reduces oversteer, especially with a higher powered engine. Toe out at the rear will make the car spin easily. |
ww914 |
Apr 7 2013, 09:34 AM
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#43
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914 Convert Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 29-September 11 From: Central Coast, CA Member No.: 13,621 Region Association: Central California |
Are you allowed to slot the strut towers to get more negative camber up front? What's your ride height? Lowering the car a quarter inch will give you more negative camber. I looked at the strut towers and it looks like if I slotted the holes, I would still have to modify the piece between the strut and the strut tower. Did you make your measurements with your weight in the drivers seat? No, that will be done on Tuesday. I just wanted to get it close. Maybe I will lower the car a little like you said. I would start with the a/s bar adjusted to the middle. I would set toe at zero front and rear. Toe in at the front is fine to compensate for stock tie-rods but doesn't benefit handling. Toe out at the front improves turn in at the expense of high speed stability. Toe in at the rear reduces oversteer, especially with a higher powered engine. Toe out at the rear will make the car spin easily. |
ChrisFoley |
Apr 7 2013, 04:01 PM
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#44
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,934 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
I looked at the strut towers and it looks like if I slotted the holes, I would still have to modify the piece between the strut and the strut tower. You can go until the camber plate hits the inside of the strut tower as long as you've already removed the shock cover tube. After that it takes aftermarket camber plates from Elephant, etc. or you can make your own the way I did, but you have to replace the rubber bushings with "Camber Balls" or a homemade spherical bearing setup. The way I made my first modified camber plates from stock pieces: Use a hole saw to cut out the center section around the bushing support flange. Then use the same hole saw to carefully cut out a crescent piece to the inside of the hole you just created. It may require temporarily tackwelding a plate over the big hole to provide a 1/4" center hole for the holesaw. Tack weld the center section back in place in the inner position. Make a new crescent shaped filler piece to finish the assembly and weld everything up solid. You could use the original cutout crescent but the holesaw removes a lot of metal and the gaps are awfully big to fill. Its a timeconsuming procedure so not feasible for a custom product IMO, but is a good DIY project for someone with the right tools. |
ww914 |
Apr 8 2013, 11:34 AM
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#45
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914 Convert Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 29-September 11 From: Central Coast, CA Member No.: 13,621 Region Association: Central California |
The above sure seems like a hell of a lot of work to get 3/4 of a degree.
What I did in preparation for tomorrow's corner balancing is I lowered the front about 1/4" and matched up the two sides. Of course this is without me in the seat. I then matched the rear to the front for approximately equal right heights. I leveled the car in the garage and measured the toe again. Here is what I got this time: LR Old -1.8, new -2.8 LF Old -1.1, new -1.9 RR Old -2.2, new -2.6 RF Old -.6, new -1.1 We will see what they get tomorrow with accurate measuring devices. |
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