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914boy |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11 Joined: 2-June 13 From: NYC Member No.: 15,956 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I figured I should make a new thread.
Converting back to fuel injection 1.7 djet We try to start the car, it cranks but does not start. Timing and TDC are checked and spot on, the coil will not spark. Just to confirm. The thick black/ purple is on the positive (+) side of the coil and the small black and condenser on the negative (-) With the ignition on, I get 12 volts at the + / black/ purple wire with the ignition on, I have ground on the negative side of the coil, when I crank, the negative side of the coil switches from ground to 12 volts positive I replaced points and condenser and coil,Same issue. |
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timothy_nd28 |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
This test light, is it a incandescent lamp or LED style? The first test, test lead on the + side of the coil, and the other lead to chassis ground proves that you have voltage going to the coil when the key is on. So far so good...
The next test you did with the test light lead on the - side of the coil and the other lead to chassis ground proves the continuity of the primary side in the ignition coil. As long as the points aren't closed and shunting the - side of the coil to ground, your light should be lit. When you attempt to start the car, and the light goes out but back on again demonstrates that the points are opening and closing. The light should blink on and off when the engine turning over. It will be a very low dim when the engine runs. If you use a LED style test light, you won't see any of this. I really don't like the test light idea, much more can be seen if you use a ohm meter (analog). Remove the neg lead from the dizzy to the ignition coil, and test the resistance from that wire to chassis ground while turning the engine over. You should see the needle sweep back and forth as the points opening and closing. Keep in mind, with the key on and the car not running, you are running the risk of ruining the new points you just installed. If the points are in the closed position, you are sending 12vdc to the ignition coil at a constant rate. This causes the ignition coil to heat up and may cause fatigue to the new points, thus higher resistance. |
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