paint info needed, what is the best primer to use Options

[freezing14]

i am finaly done fixing the swiss cheeze on the car , it is all gone, i will be soda blasting the car within a couple of days and i will be putting the primer on myself to be able to do the most of the body work myself and i have looked into the different primer and now i am confused?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) i will be using the omni line of paint from PPG and there is a couple of different primer--
the epoxy etch, but it contains chrome ( very toxic) so reject as i have a home made paint booth
the regular epoxy but apparently it is not sandable ( wtf it means)
then there is the high build 1K no epoxy ??
then the high build 2K epoxy

the car is strait and very little pitting on the outside i had to joint the quater panel half way and i did a couple of patch but they are but weld so very little bondo

what is the best price versus quality way to do??

I know i have to primer, putty, primer and then paint , which one should I use for which

thanks you very much for your help

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[Brett W]

Alright here is the skinny:

I have used all of the following:
Marhyde High build Primer 'Yellow"
Sherwin Williams Green etching primer
House of Color Epoxy primer and sealers
SM flexible primer
Dupont Basecoats
House of Color basecoats
PPG Basecoats
Dupont Clears
House of Color Clears

My car was done in Dupont and I have always favored Dupont products they are easy to work with. The basecoats are not activated like PPG. I do not like PPG paints. House of Color Products are very nice, a little more expensive but nice and pretty easy to work with.

The Sherwin Willliams etching primer is great for Fiberglass and Bare metal. I have shot Epoxy over bare metal without much problem. You can sand little areas of the epoxy but for the most part it is not worth it. The Marhyde primer is high build and really sands well. I mean really well. There is no reason to use a "high build" primer to cover the sanding scratches. You use a high build primer to help speed the flattening process. I tend to thin the last coat of primer a litte more than recommended as it tends to lay down a little better. I would stop dry sanding at 220grit and proceed to wet sanding at 320 and finis with a 400-600 grit.

Always apply Filler products to bare metal. Never apply over primer. I have always used a polyester based filler as it doesn't grow as much as Bondo and is a little more flexible. I think the name of it is Rage but I haven't looked at the can ina few months. I also use a two part polyesterspot putty that is really good. If you apply the filler and rough sand then prime you should not have a problem with moisture. If you could be letting it sit in a moist enviroment then you might want to put a light top coat over it just to seal it for an extended time.

Good paint work is painstaking work. The beauty is in the small details. It will take you a long time to get it perfect, but the more time you spend working on it the better the finished product. I could see the color of the surrounding environment in my paint job at 50ft. Good luck with it.