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Hammer920 |
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It's a Learning Experience ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 83 Joined: 27-April 04 From: Levelland, TX Member No.: 1,989 ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I have dropped the engine and tranny and now have gone down as far as the piston cylienders abd heads, there were no gaskets on then at all the push rod tubes had orange silicone on the seals some were just o-rings not for the porshe itself some were some other kind of seals. I ordered a complete set from pelican parts, the 1st Question is this, when i took off the drivers side head one of the fins on cylender 4 partially broke off about 4 " of it, will that effect the cooling of it. 2nd question the pistons in cylender 2&4 and the valves are clean, the 1&3 piston heads have carbon bild up on top of the piston and valves cylender walls are smooth as a baby's butt, should I take the piston cylenders off and have them polished and cleaned or scrape off the carbon build up and put back togeather I dont have the ring compressor to put them back on. there were a lot of things that i saw that was not right or missing. any suggestions would be appreciated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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Hammer920 |
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It's a Learning Experience ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 83 Joined: 27-April 04 From: Levelland, TX Member No.: 1,989 ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) The pic of the cooler if you look in the center wher you can see the fins, well i rubbed my finger over that it was totaly blocked. I have more pic's of the heads and cylinders the heads had no gaskets on them nor did the cylinders had no "lets see Auto atlanta calls it a head gasket w/ diagram, haynes book has sealing rings and pelican also has sealing rings so I am assumeing that it is a sealing ring, there were none! the reason I pulled the heads was all, injectors were fireing and spraying correctly in the viles, the front to cylenders were very strong 2&4, the back 2 cylinders 1&3 were fireing BUT not as strong, these are the 2 injectors that I replaced new, in the pic's cylinders 1&3 have carbon build up, same for the valves on the heads. I'll order new rings and pin's for the pistons and have the cylinder walls polished out, cannot find 1.7 pistons and cylinders.
During the tear down it had a Factory Air cond. compressor, since there is nothing other than this will not put back on, still turns and has oil in the compressor all the bolts were loose on that on the block, will replace the clutch cable outercovering or plactic torn off , Funny thing on that there was a worm gear clamp clampped on the cable on the pulley end, I guess when who ever had it before me put that there to space the clutch out, on the Fly Wheel bolts, they were supposed to be a 12 point bolt, they were 17 mm hex head bolts that were gound off on top to fit, it was balanced did drive it no vibration. The Tin screws well they were most al there but some were removed and used else where on the car. in the pics that i posted today the o-ring seals for the oil tubs this is how it came out and are not right size. The reason for the drop well when you put new oil censor in and the oil light omes on after it warmmed up, and the car died at all stops and would have to restart, and all the oil leaks, rear main leaking front was questionable will repace anyway I thought it would be better to do this to actually know and run like it should run. The Body as normal will have to replace the battery tray rotted through and brace while I'm there will remove the light rust on the metal there to see if it needs replaced, there is a Silver dollarsized rust spot on the drivers side roll bar right above the door handle and the jack pole drivers side rusted off may have to replace that longitudnal other than that the rest of the body other than the color it was originally signal orange was poorly painted over metalic blue will replace all body metal with metal and repaint it. Attached image(s) ![]() |
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