Motor tear down Options

[lsintampa]

75 914/4 2.0 d-jet

Boring story, but it looks like I need to get into my motor. The motor came with the car and was nice and clean. All parts that could be powder coated were, it was like new looking. It also had valves re-adjusted, leak tested (OK), and internal probes showed it to be very clean (info from PO).

It sat on my garage floor for 5 months while I tended to the car's other needs. I did drop some oil into each cylinder before I put the plugs in. But the fuel feeder tubes and inlet ports were wide open for a while. But plugged with rags (noted).

Anyway now that I'm finally getting around to trying to start it, the motor is all but seized up. It turns, but it is really hard to move and when it does, it sounds raspy like it's grinding something or scraping something. Hard to explain but it don't sound good.

So, I'm starting all over and I'm going to drop that motor back out and get into it. It is the ONLY way that I will know for sure what I'm dealing with.

Thanks for everyone that's helped along the way. I'm sure once I get into this motor, I'll be looking for help once again.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[lsintampa]

FOUND IT.

The clutch fork (release fork) is riding on the pressure plate.

Question now is WHY???

Pictures show the rubbing clearly.

[ThePaintedMan]

FOUND IT.

The clutch fork (release fork) is riding on the pressure plate.

Question now is WHY???

That's good.

The fork has to have both a bushing underneath it as well as a retaining "fork." If you remove that allen head screw and consult the diagram in the PET, you'll see what I mean. Ensure that it's assembled correctly.

Also, it's common for people to "shim" the clutch lever ball stud with a washer when material is removed from the flywheel. This returns the original amount of leverage to the lever, but it is possible they shimmed it too much? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Bartlett 914]

FOUND IT.

The clutch fork (release fork) is riding on the pressure plate.

Question now is WHY???

Also, it's common for people to "shim" the clutch lever ball stud with a washer when material is removed from the flywheel. This returns the original amount of leverage to the lever, but it is possible they shimmed it too much? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Good find! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Maybe they shimmed this for the old flywheel. Now it is a new one and doesn't need them.

[lsintampa]

FOUND IT.

The clutch fork (release fork) is riding on the pressure plate.

Question now is WHY???

Also, it's common for people to "shim" the clutch lever ball stud with a washer when material is removed from the flywheel. This returns the original amount of leverage to the lever, but it is possible they shimmed it too much? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Good find! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Maybe they shimmed this for the old flywheel. Now it is a new one and doesn't need them.

AHH, I read what you said again. In my mind, if I were to shim it, I'd put a shim behind the TO bearing - moving it forward and the fork back.

But shims behind the ball would push the fork forward and the TO bearing back.

Found this. So is one a shim and one a washer? I need to toss one or both?

What a drama this has been.

BTW - my end play is fine, checked it today.

[ThePaintedMan]

Found this. So is one a shim and one a washer? I need to toss one or both?

What a drama this has been.

BTW - my end play is fine, checked it today.

The shim would go behind the ball stud, NOTHING should be behind the throwout bearing. Try it with only one of those washers under the ball stud and see if the fork still rubs on the clutch at full engagement.

[lsintampa]

Found this. So is one a shim and one a washer? I need to toss one or both?

What a drama this has been.

BTW - my end play is fine, checked it today.

The shim would go behind the ball stud, NOTHING should be behind the throwout bearing. Try it with only one of those washers under the ball stud and see if the fork still rubs on the clutch at full engagement.

PET shows a washer behind the ball stud. Looks like the shim is the thicker one.

Anybody need a ball socket shim?