Motor tear down Options

[lsintampa]

75 914/4 2.0 d-jet

Boring story, but it looks like I need to get into my motor. The motor came with the car and was nice and clean. All parts that could be powder coated were, it was like new looking. It also had valves re-adjusted, leak tested (OK), and internal probes showed it to be very clean (info from PO).

It sat on my garage floor for 5 months while I tended to the car's other needs. I did drop some oil into each cylinder before I put the plugs in. But the fuel feeder tubes and inlet ports were wide open for a while. But plugged with rags (noted).

Anyway now that I'm finally getting around to trying to start it, the motor is all but seized up. It turns, but it is really hard to move and when it does, it sounds raspy like it's grinding something or scraping something. Hard to explain but it don't sound good.

So, I'm starting all over and I'm going to drop that motor back out and get into it. It is the ONLY way that I will know for sure what I'm dealing with.

Thanks for everyone that's helped along the way. I'm sure once I get into this motor, I'll be looking for help once again.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[ThePaintedMan]

Roger, I did some more reading and found out a little more on your background and how you came about owning the car. I apologize if I sounded like I didn't think you knew your stuff. It's been my own personal experience with previous owners that makes me so weary of other people's work, so again, I apologize.

However, if you could share what you know about the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate history, that would probably help us. Is it safe to assume when you had the car it wasn't in operating condition? I.e., the engine/trans combo was already split apart?

[lsintampa]

Roger, I did some more reading and found out a little more on your background and how you came about owning the car. I apologize if I sounded like I didn't think you knew your stuff. It's been my own personal experience with previous owners that makes me so weary of other people's work, so again, I apologize.

However, if you could share what you know about the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate history, that would probably help us. Is it safe to assume when you had the car it wasn't in operating condition? I.e., the engine/trans combo was already split apart?

George, when Roger got the car, the motor was IN the car with tranny attached. It had not run in many years however.

The motor and tranny were removed, cleaned, and resealed, tins powder coated, motor had great leak down test results.

The reason the flywheel was replaced is that Roger discovered someone had ground the heads of the old flywheel bolts down, so he thought the flywheel had been machined too far and the center of the clutch disc must have been hitting the bolt heads. Then I discovered there was a significant washer placed behind the ball pivot - I will assume by the PPO, not Roger.

Best I know the clutch and pressure plate were not replaced, only the flywheel was.

Question: in a normal setup does the TO bearing ride on the pressure plate fingers at all times?

I read that there should be about 1/2" play in the fork, but that makes little sense to me because I wonder what prevents the clevis pin from falling out? With that much play, I'd thing the fork may move enough to allow the clevis pin to come off.

[Bartlett 914]

Question: in a normal setup does the TO bearing ride on the pressure plate fingers at all times?

I read that there should be about 1/2" play in the fork, but that makes little sense to me because I wonder what prevents the clevis pin from falling out? With that much play, I'd thing the fork may move enough to allow the clevis pin to come off.

There is your answer. There should be 1/2" play which means it should not be touching. Not pressing would be a better word. With the cable installed it may be touching but the engine and transmission are not in the car. Remove enough of the washers that were under the ball pivot that will give you a 1/2" play in the lever. Rotate the engine from the fan side to insure you don't have any unusual noises and I would think you are good.

I don't know what you mean about the clevis pin falling out. The cable holds it in place unless you have something different.

[lsintampa]

Question: in a normal setup does the TO bearing ride on the pressure plate fingers at all times?

I read that there should be about 1/2" play in the fork, but that makes little sense to me because I wonder what prevents the clevis pin from falling out? With that much play, I'd thing the fork may move enough to allow the clevis pin to come off.

There is your answer. There should be 1/2" play which means it should not be touching. Not pressing would be a better word. With the cable installed it may be touching but the engine and transmission are not in the car. Remove enough of the washers that were under the ball pivot that will give you a 1/2" play in the lever. Rotate the engine from the fan side to insure you don't have any unusual noises and I would think you are good.

I don't know what you mean about the clevis pin falling out. The cable holds it in place unless you have something different.

RE the clevis pin... the clutch pedal doesn't have a spring on it, so the only thing that applies any pressure on the cable is what? I'm assuming it is the fingers on the pressure plate, no? Well if there is 1/2" play in the fork, would that be enough room for the clevis pin to wiggle itself out??? (that's me thinking out loud)

That said, the car when I got it, had the pedal box installed. I noticed that the clutch pedal did not have any spring and assumed that was how it was. This is the first time I saw a cable operated clutch, so what do I know? I replaced the master cylinder, rebuilt the brakes, but it looks like I need to revisit the pedal box cluster again.