Motor tear down Options

[lsintampa]

75 914/4 2.0 d-jet

Boring story, but it looks like I need to get into my motor. The motor came with the car and was nice and clean. All parts that could be powder coated were, it was like new looking. It also had valves re-adjusted, leak tested (OK), and internal probes showed it to be very clean (info from PO).

It sat on my garage floor for 5 months while I tended to the car's other needs. I did drop some oil into each cylinder before I put the plugs in. But the fuel feeder tubes and inlet ports were wide open for a while. But plugged with rags (noted).

Anyway now that I'm finally getting around to trying to start it, the motor is all but seized up. It turns, but it is really hard to move and when it does, it sounds raspy like it's grinding something or scraping something. Hard to explain but it don't sound good.

So, I'm starting all over and I'm going to drop that motor back out and get into it. It is the ONLY way that I will know for sure what I'm dealing with.

Thanks for everyone that's helped along the way. I'm sure once I get into this motor, I'll be looking for help once again.

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[ThePaintedMan]

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When the engine/trans combo is bolted together, you should have some play in the clutch fork. It should easily move by hand. When the cable is attached, there will be enough pressure on the fork to keep the clevis in when the clutch is all the way out. The way it is now is WRONG - the fork should not be pressed all the way back toward the engine at rest.

If we know that the only thing that was changed from the way it was when it was last bolted together was the flywheel, why should we start with the pressure plate? To boot, that is one of the suspect Chinese-made AA flywheels which others have had problems with. What you could do is at least check the specs of the flywheel as in this thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...ywheel++measure

While you're at it, try to find some kind of markings on the pressure plate to determine if it is a 914 part. However, if Roger could tell us if the clutch fork had play previous to the new flywheel, that would pretty much point us in the right direction.

[Bartlett 914]

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When the engine/trans combo is bolted together, you should have some play in the clutch fork. It should easily move by hand. When the cable is attached, there will be enough pressure on the fork to keep the clevis in when the clutch is all the way out. The way it is now is WRONG - the fork should not be pressed all the way back toward the engine at rest.

If we know that the only thing that was changed from the way it was when it was last bolted together was the flywheel, why should we start with the pressure plate? To boot, that is one of the suspect Chinese-made AA flywheels which others have had problems with. What you could do is at least check the specs of the flywheel as in this thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...ywheel++measure

While you're at it, try to find some kind of markings on the pressure plate to determine if it is a 914 part. However, if Roger could tell us if the clutch fork had play previous to the new flywheel, that would pretty much point us in the right direction.

What I stated is to put the correct amount of spacers under the ball pivot to give you 1/2" of play. This is not an absolute number! Use enough spacer under the pivot to give you "some" play.

What clevis are you talking about? Are you talking about the pin in the pedal. That pin must be correct and pressed in place. If it is loose at all, it will fail. Period. If you are talking about the clevis at the clutch lever at the transmission, it cannot fall out. The clutch cable goes through a notch.

[ThePaintedMan]

What I stated is to put the correct amount of spacers under the ball pivot to give you 1/2" of play. This is not an absolute number! Use enough spacer under the pivot to give you "some" play.

Right now he has tried it with the stock 1 spacer and the fork is still rubbing the pressure plate and the fork is pressed all the way back toward the engine. Wouldn't adding more spacers provide less play (but more leverage)?