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MrHyde |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 525 Joined: 13-October 10 From: Ontario, Canada Member No.: 12,268 Region Association: None ![]() |
got a couple issues I could use some advice on. 2316cc with weber 44's
1: CHT i gave a micro1000 CHT gauge.. its not reading anything.. i have it under #3 cylinder and its connected to the extension line and heat shrinked and on the gauge its red to + and purple to - . this is the only way it will go as one is a male and the other is a female connector. 2: carbs are running lop sided. right bank is pulling about 5 and the left side is pulling 12-14. this is with the idle speed screws backed right off. Any adjustments on the right banks mixture screws do pretty well nothing until closed and then is sputters a bit. Adjusting the mixture screws on the left side start making changes to the idle and sound of th engine immediately.. 3: voltage gauge is not reading anything but the idiot light does go out once the motor is running 4: fuel gauge and the temp gauge ( in combo gauge) are both pegged.. I think this is most likely ground. i'll check that in a min. I only put a couple gallons of gas in the tank. side note.. once motor was warmed up doing cam break in the oil pressure was steady at a hair over 20psi andi only have one small drip of oil on one valve cover, which i'll look at when i do a valve adjustment. |
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ThePaintedMan |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Hmm. So you're saying that you're seeing those readings on the synchrometer when the linkage is completely loose/basically disconnected? At 1,000 rpms, you shouldn't see anything over 5-6 on the gauge.
What you're describing still sounds like a synchronization issue. I'm trying to visualize this, so forgive me if I'm way off here (honestly Chris is probably the guy to ask, not me), but if the 3/4 plugs are fouling and it is consistently running a few numbers lower than the 1/2 carb, then what I think is happening is the 1/2 carb is "carrying" the engine. The 3/4 throttle plate is more closed than the 1/2 carb, and raw fuel is being drawn into the cylinders without enough air, which also explains the reading. Right now, 1 and 2 are doing all the work, and 3 and 4 are still searching for the right air/fuel ratio to jump in and help. If I were you, I would take another look at what is happening with the linkage. Visually, how do both of the throttle stops look at idle/closed position. As you rotate the master carb, how does the slave carb look? Is it visually keeping up with the other? Do this with the engine off. Keep in mind that very, very small adjustments can make a big effect on the overall synch of the carbs. As I said, I have a similar issue with my car, and I have not quite ever got it completely figured out. For the time being I just synched them at the RPM where I feel the car gets the most use - about 3,000. But that's a bandaid and not a solution. Again, I appreciate the kind words that some have said regarding my still growing knowledge of carbs, but I'm really not the expert. However, I love to troubleshoot, so if you have any more questions, shoot me a PM and maybe we can talk this through over the phone? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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