Question:, Can you delete pop-up lights?? Options

[BuddyV]

If I was to remove a pair of pop-up lights and swap in a fiberglass hood that does not have the headlight cut-outs...... could you install lights in the fog light cut out ion the bumper with lights that would work well as headlights???

Street use.... although I almost never drive at night. I know this is done for race applications where the pop-up delete saves weight, etc. Just not sure it's a good idea for the street.

.... wondering because of a few opportunities that have presented themselves.

Cheers!

[doorknobcollector]

Dr Evil, is what you are proposing a "sleepy eye" modification like the 240 and 300 Z crowd seem to like?



I am not saying I am interested, but I would be interested just to see what it looks like... I think it would skirt the line between modern and ricer-boy pretty closely.

[Dr Evil]

Dr Evil, is what you are proposing a "sleepy eye" modification like the 240 and 300 Z crowd seem to like?



I am not saying I am interested, but I would be interested just to see what it looks like... I think it would skirt the line between modern and ricer-boy pretty closely.

Yup, precisely. I have seen a 914 kit where the lights pop up only enough, but when you turn the lights off the actuators fully cycle so it opens way wide before closing. This seems silly.

The easiest way for the DIY person would be to change the geometry on the actuator. This is what Mike B was referring to. I am considering an electronic option that opens to a level determined by the adjustment of a knob, and then closes without going through the whole sequence (goes in reverse, instead). This gives me something to mess with in my free time....gonna be a while.

[mikesmith]

Yup, precisely. I have seen a 914 kit where the lights pop up only enough, but when you turn the lights off the actuators fully cycle so it opens way wide before closing. This seems silly.

But given the design of the lights, it's what's easy (you just cut/remove some of the trace on the rotary switch that powers the lights as they go up...).

[The easiest way for the DIY person would be to change the geometry on the actuator. This is what Mike B was referring to. I am considering an electronic option that opens to a level determined by the adjustment of a knob, and then closes without going through the whole sequence (goes in reverse, instead). This gives me something to mess with in my free time....gonna be a while.

The other half of the challenge is finding the right light assembly to mount in your new, sleepy lights...

[Dr Evil]

Yup, precisely. I have seen a 914 kit where the lights pop up only enough, but when you turn the lights off the actuators fully cycle so it opens way wide before closing. This seems silly.

But given the design of the lights, it's what's easy (you just cut/remove some of the trace on the rotary switch that powers the lights as they go up...).

[The easiest way for the DIY person would be to change the geometry on the actuator. This is what Mike B was referring to. I am considering an electronic option that opens to a level determined by the adjustment of a knob, and then closes without going through the whole sequence (goes in reverse, instead). This gives me something to mess with in my free time....gonna be a while.

The other half of the challenge is finding the right light assembly to mount in your new, sleepy lights...

Nope. If you cut the rotary part of the switch if will either open or close, but the circuit will not complete. The geometry is the easiest way, but takes trial and error with most people. Thus, my question about a circuit that can be installed and give you whatever you want.

Maybe, once I get access to a headlight set in a car I can do some measurements and post them for different heights or post up a spread sheet. That seems the best way to go and would help the most. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[mikesmith]

But given the design of the lights, it's what's easy (you just cut/remove some of the trace on the rotary switch that powers the lights as they go up...).

Nope. If you cut the rotary part of the switch if will either open or close, but the circuit will not complete.

If you open up the gap in the "hot to open" ring, you can make it stop earlier. But I agree, this isn't really useful (plus you can get the lights 'stuck' more open than you want them if you flip them off then on again quickly.

The geometry is the easiest way, but takes trial and error with most people. Thus, myquestion about a circuit that can be installed and give you whatever you want.

Maybe, once I get access to a headlight set in a car I can do some measurements and post them for different heights or post up a spread sheet. That seems the best way to go and would help the most. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I'm not sure that it makes sense to have a knob to adjust things - if you're going to mess with your lights there's a single target height that's 'right' once you're done messing with them.

From a hacking perspective, I think you could get away with a couple of Heim joints and some threaded rod replacing the pushrod, and a modified crank that lets you move the pivot closer to the driveshaft.



There are a couple of issues in the above; there's not much room to move the pivot closer to the driveshaft with the existing crank design, and the gearbox mount bolt clearance is kinda tight, but I suspect someone with fabrication skill wouldn't find that much of a challenge... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)