Question:, Can you delete pop-up lights?? Options

[BuddyV]

If I was to remove a pair of pop-up lights and swap in a fiberglass hood that does not have the headlight cut-outs...... could you install lights in the fog light cut out ion the bumper with lights that would work well as headlights???

Street use.... although I almost never drive at night. I know this is done for race applications where the pop-up delete saves weight, etc. Just not sure it's a good idea for the street.

.... wondering because of a few opportunities that have presented themselves.

Cheers!

[Dr Evil]

The reason for an adjustment knob on the electical one is because you will not have the same height requirement as someone else. Thus, you will need to adjust to your height and someone else to theirs. The unit would bypass/trick the stock parts so that it would open to your set height (by the knob) and then when you close them it would go in revers. If it can not be made plug-and-play then it will be no better than making specific arms for different setups.

[mikesmith]

The reason for an adjustment knob on the electical one is because you will not have the same height requirement as someone else. Thus, you will need to adjust to your height and someone else to theirs. The unit would bypass/trick the stock parts so that it would open to your set height (by the knob) and then when you close them it would go in revers. If it can not be made plug-and-play then it will be no better than making specific arms for different setups.

This is why I was talking about finding "the" light assembly, since you'd want a single fixed angle change for a given light setup, and unless you changed your light setup (or built a cantilever to keep the lights always level...) you wouldn't care about adjustability.


With that said, making the motor do what you're describing won't be hard. It's externally grounded and should easily run backwards. Position sensing (i.e. what is the knob setting compared against?) will be more difficult; you could conceivably replace the existing switch rotor with one with a resistive coating, but unless you can find a stock part that's easily modified to drop in it's going to be expensive getting a custom built.

If you were willing to have a fixed number of discrete steps, you could build a simpler rotor replacement emulating a two-wire rotary encoder. There are a bunch of unknowns here (how fat is the contact patch when the fingers wear? how much lash or overrun should you assume?) but you could probably do this with a regular single-sided PCB and have them made inexpensively. Then it's just a pair of relays and a small compute device to read the encoder, knob and control signals.