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gryphon68 |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 61 Joined: 2-October 13 From: SE Michigan Member No.: 16,462 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
What is the best match for rear brake calipers if I am planning a 5-lug conversion with 1970 911T Struts and hubs? Leaning towards the 3" Brembo Aluminum calipers in front, the lightweight is a big plus in my opinion.
Hoping to use the 911 parking brake in the back, so no need for complicated rear calipers with internal parking brake. Besides a 3" M-Caliper (38mm?) what are the other options for the rear calipers? Something lightweight would be a bonus . . . If I where to run a dual master cylinder pedal with balance bar would it be possible to just use another set of the 48mm Brembo Aluminum calipers on the rear? |
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CptTripps |
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#2
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:: Punch and Pie :: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,585 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Tuscaloosa, AL and Akron, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
That's what I'm looking for. I haven't seen a thread that specifically talks about WHAT to buy to make it work. I can weld and am getting ready to completely rebuild the rear trailing arms, so now's the time while I have them stripped. I'm going to weld tubes in anyway, so one extra step to give me a proper handbrake is a no-brainer.
I was also hoping to find a good/easy way to relocate the handbrake to the center console. Since I'm gutting all that stuff anyway, I may as well "while I'm in there." |
tomeric914 |
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One Lap of America in a 914! ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,268 Joined: 25-May 08 From: Syracuse, NY Member No.: 9,101 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
I haven't seen a thread that specifically talks about WHAT to buy to make it work. I can weld and am getting ready to completely rebuild the rear trailing arms, so now's the time while I have them stripped. There are many ways to skin the cat. Tangerine racing offers one way to do it in a complete package: http://tangerineracing.com/brakes.htm I relocated the brake cable brackets on the trailing arm so as to have a straight pull on the bell crank. The bell crank pivots in a bronze bushing from Lowes inside a weld on bushing purchased from http://www.aa-mfg.com/. This all slides onto a bolt welded to the trailing arm acting like a stud. I never took any measurements, but may have more pictures. One thing for certain, the block that the brake shoes rest on and the bell crank pulls against must be reinforced. Otherwise it will fail. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm5.static.flickr.com-9101-1280710809.1.jpg) |
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