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toolguy |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,276 Joined: 2-April 11 From: San Diego / El Cajon Member No.: 12,889 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
After thinking about whether I should let others know about this issue, I decided the right thing to do is post the pictures and issue with no names at this point so he can see what was delivered to me as 'rust free'. . .
Here's the story. . . A long time member sold this deck lid recently and represented is as straight and rust free. . here's his PM to me when I specifically asked about any rust, which was my main concern. . "" Dave. . . Once you pay for it, it's yours. It will just sit at XXXX's shop... Not sure when I'll get back to LA. My daughter's in Diamond Bar. She is planning a trip home next. It is as described. Very straight, there's no rust."" So I pay his full asking price, no quibbling, based on his representation of the condition. I make the 2 day 1200 mile trip to pick it up and here is what I find. . .rust from most of the seems , especially the rear lower lip. . I tell the 'shop owner' the seller said no rust. . He replies "That's between you and the seller". . So there I am, 600 miles away from home, with a lid I would have never bought in the first place if it had been properly described. Since seller that already specifically stated "Once you pay for it, it's yours", and the shop owner stating that he's out of the picture as to condition, I feel somewhat compelled to take it or lose everything as I'm already out 2 days traveling 12000 miles, 60+ gallons of gas and a hotel for the night, I PM the seller that day to let him know about the rust issue. . . I ask for an email address so I can provide him a picture, thinking maybe, just maybe, he was unaware of the extent of the rust. . He goes AWOL for days, and despite numerous requests for an email, has yet to give me one. . His last PM to me was that I was strong-arming him for a refund, and said "There is really no point. I have already offered a refund and all you have to do is return the lid to XXX's shop. There is currently a lid listed at $175 that looks like crap by comparison. Regardless of what you found, this lid is worth $200" So here is a shot of the so called rust free deck lid for the seller to see since he won't email me his address. . My last message to him was the I felt he would also be disappointed if the same happened to him. . Burns my butt that a long time member would actually describe this as rust free and now blame me for accepting it, . His latest PM was for me to drive the 1200 mile trip and return the hood which doesn't make financial sense . . . SO for the seller. . is this rust or not ?? Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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rick 918-S |
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 21,008 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
ALL 914 parts now have surface rust. Even NOS stuff has rust now. If you know how to treat and stop it it will out last you. If I were closer I would gladly give you $ 200.00 for that lid. The 6 I purchased from California had rust through the rear lid above the latch. It happens. I purchased a lid from a car in Vegas. I'm picking it up when I get out west.
If you fixed rust holes in your lid with lead your asking for it to blow up in your face. There is a big stupid piece of foam in the cavity above the latch. The heat required to tin the metal and blend the solder is plenty enough to cause oxidation to start forming. Any thin metal you didn't find are now on an accelerated path to failure. Did you get a year or two out of that repair? you were lucky. Here's how you treat the inner structure and inner lid assuming you have no holes. First use a scraper, piece of sheet metal, sand paper or anything you can get to scrape loose any scale you can get to between the inner structure and outer lid. Wash the area out with your favorite rust converter. Be sure to neutralize the converter and use heat to dry the lids inner structure. Media blast the part to remove the paint and surface rust. Purchase Eastwoods rust encapsulator in a spray can. http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-...ce-aerosol.html This product has an awesome spray nozzle that fans the product as it sprays. Mask the gap all the way around the inner structure to seal the space. Use the hinge, latch and bump stop holes to inject and flood the encapsulator into the sealed space. It's thin enough to seep through the pinch weld flanges. I have used this method on lids with surface rust showing. The key is to take your time and get the scale off as good as you can. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 4th July 2025 - 05:33 PM |
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