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jmargush |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 470 Joined: 8-June 04 From: Goshen, IN Member No.: 2,176 ![]() |
I am sorting out my recently built 2056 specs below:
2.0 Heads were done by Len Hoffman CR 8.56:1 Full Raby valve train kit Stock L-jet throttle body, air cleaner, and intake runners stock 2.0 heat exchangers pertronix ignition It has a miss under hard acceleration. All the vacuum lines and oil cap gaskets are new and I can't seem to find a leak any where. So I decided to recheck the timing. Pulled vac lines off the vacuum diaphragm and plugged, set idle to 800 rpm timing was a little more advanced than it should be but not dramatically, but I did reset to factory setting. Drove it and it is even worse than before. Would the new engine combo warrant a different timing? Fuel filter is new but my next step is to check fuel pressures and injectors. Anything else I should be looking for? |
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Java2570 |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 649 Joined: 7-May 11 From: Fishers, IN Member No.: 13,035 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
The AEM air fuel gauge I bought included the O2 sensor and the bung to weld onto the exhaust.
I started out using the no weld clamp (you have to drill a hole in the exhaust) and it works ok but in retrospect, I'd get it welded if I did it again. That was on a Bursch muffler....if you're using heat exchangers, it's best to install the bung on the muffler pipe after the collector merges. I'm not sure there's a way to do it very well using a stock muffler....you could only use one side of the exhaust. What's your setup, exhaust-wise? |
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