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> Which of our Vendors Sells 0 280 130 003-or-0 280 130 012, HTC for 73 2.0 In preperation for the RRC Also need a T-Stat
rick 918-S
post Aug 17 2014, 07:03 PM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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We plan to take Sandy's car to the RRC this time. The top end rebuild has like 2k since install.

I'm dealing with a constant rich condition and want to install a new head temp sensor. I have the ballast in place.

I plan to check the timing.

I will check for tight valve adjustment just in case but I think that's fine.

Also idle is inconsistent. This could be partially the fault of the T-Stat not working. So I need one of those also.

I have a known good AAR incase the one in the car tests bad.

I tested the MAPS. It holds vacuum and is the correct part # as is the ECU.

Final issue is the charging system. It seems to be fine but when you step on the brakes or flip on the signals or light the voltage drops. I think I have a bad ground someplace. I have a new transaxle strap and the main ground next to the relay board is clean and tight. Any suggestions where I should start?

Also any other suggestions are welcome.

P.S. Pelican lists the HTS but I'm not sure it's the correct one for the 73 2.0 GPR's listing specifies 1.7 engine. Sierra no listing.
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DRPHIL914
post Aug 18 2014, 07:36 AM
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Dr. Phil
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Aug 17 2014, 09:03 PM) *

We plan to take Sandy's car to the RRC this time. The top end rebuild has like 2k since install.


I will check for tight valve adjustment just in case but I think that's fine.

Also idle is inconsistent. This could be partially the fault of the T-Stat not working. So I need one of those also.

I have a known good AAR incase the one in the car tests bad.

Final issue is the charging system. It seems to be fine but when you step on the brakes or flip on the signals or light the voltage drops. I think I have a bad ground someplace. I have a new transaxle strap and the main ground next to the relay board is clean and tight. Any suggestions where I should start?

Also any other suggestions are welcome.


rick, regarding the voltage drop, mine has always done the same, even the idle drops about a 100rpm with the lights on vs off, but i have been told by others that the voltage drop with the lights on is normal. if you find otherwise i would be interested to know what it is. The AAR certainly will cause higher idle if its not fully closed. sometimes just adjusting the idle richness on the ECU will even out the idle, as long as timing and TPS are set correctly and been ruled out. - NOw i have also had situations where the MPS was holding vac but was really causing a lean condition and the idle will hunt like you have a vac leak-but you said you are running rich? could still be the MPS, or the CHT- doing that as well.
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