We plan to take Sandy's car to the RRC this time. The top end rebuild has like 2k since install.

I'm dealing with a constant rich condition and want to install a new head temp sensor. I have the ballast in place.

I plan to check the timing.

I will check for tight valve adjustment just in case but I think that's fine.

Also idle is inconsistent. This could be partially the fault of the T-Stat not working. So I need one of those also.

I have a known good AAR incase the one in the car tests bad.

I tested the MAPS. It holds vacuum and is the correct part # as is the ECU.

Final issue is the charging system. It seems to be fine but when you step on the brakes or flip on the signals or light the voltage drops. I think I have a bad ground someplace. I have a new transaxle strap and the main ground next to the relay board is clean and tight. Any suggestions where I should start?

Also any other suggestions are welcome.

P.S. Pelican lists the HTS but I'm not sure it's the correct one for the 73 2.0 GPR's listing specifies 1.7 engine. Sierra no listing.

rick, carrie(a&pgirl. member vendor.) has them listed on her site. i'm pretty confident you'll receive the correct part AND it comes with a new wire. she markets some interesting items.

Autohausaz has cylinder head temp sender 0 280 130 12 for $11.61.

does that include a new wire?

If I didn't give it to Mark I have a good tstat in my storage garage. If I did give it to Mark, you'll have to negotiate with him. I think I know what he'll want though...

HTS? I could only find 1.7 listings

Whatever our site says, we have Bosch 028013012 . I'm not sure why it didn't show up for you. Our supplier catalogs show that p/n for both 1.7 and 2.0 which is a little odd since I believe there were two different Porsche p/n's.

Given all the free knowledge you shared, I'll be glad to send you one n/c.

B

Thank you sir. My goal with this post was to support our member vendors. Very important if we are to have resources when we need them. I will contact you through your web site. Thank you again!

As I remember, the 012 is the only one that's out there new for the type 4 & others I assume.

Yes, As I understand the 12 is very close to the ohms reading for the 2.0

Yep, it's the only one we can get. Catalog shows application for al all type IV (Squareback, Transporter, etc.).

School me on how this is connected.

How is your TPS?


One it up and see if it's properly adjusted for idle.
If it's off just a bit, you get rich running, poor idle, and flaky conditions.

rick, regarding the voltage drop, mine has always done the same, even the idle drops about a 100rpm with the lights on vs off, but i have been told by others that the voltage drop with the lights on is normal. if you find otherwise i would be interested to know what it is. The AAR certainly will cause higher idle if its not fully closed. sometimes just adjusting the idle richness on the ECU will even out the idle, as long as timing and TPS are set correctly and been ruled out. - NOw i have also had situations where the MPS was holding vac but was really causing a lean condition and the idle will hunt like you have a vac leak-but you said you are running rich? could still be the MPS, or the CHT- doing that as well.

My theory? Flats default open. engine never really warms up. HTS say's the engine is cold. WUR not working correctly.

So either cold engine. (gauge barely reads after driving 30 minutes) open flats?

HTS toast causing a rich condition?