Type 4 Store 2270, Type 4 Store 2270 |
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Type 4 Store 2270, Type 4 Store 2270 |
lexatola |
Oct 18 2014, 12:08 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 10 Joined: 17-September 14 From: Woodinville, WA Member No.: 17,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on the 2270 engine kit from the Type 4 store. I'm curious if anyone knows what the difference between the kit and the Raby 2270 SR. I see they each have different HP specs. Do we think this is an actual difference or just a difference in written spec? Same cam? Same Heads? Curious if this kit can make better HP than 140? Headers? Other tested and ordained cam?
I'd appreciate any input based on experience, Best, Alex |
McMark |
Oct 18 2014, 11:25 AM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
I find that looking at the HP numbers is just confusing. It gives the wrong impression. Especially considering that most around town driving is more about torque than HP.
A 1.7 is fine. A 2.0 is good. A 2056 is fun. A 2270 is great. Beyond that a kit means you accept some risk and you have to know what you're doing. You're not buying an engine, you're buying parts. A longblock motor means your buying something built by someone who's been down that road more than a few times. You're buying a shortcut as well. Instead of spending 20-30 hours building a motor (how many weekends or evenings is that?) you can skip that part and get something that just needs to be installed. Then you need to tune and adjust the motor. A turnkey motor is the quickest route to getting running, but costs the most. A turnkey has been tuned and should be ready to just install and then turn they key. You're decision should be based on the money/time equation, in my opinion. Secondarily would be to buy as much motor as you can afford. |
ConeDodger |
Oct 18 2014, 01:40 PM
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#3
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,602 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
I find that looking at the HP numbers is just confusing. It gives the wrong impression. Especially considering that most around town driving is more about torque than HP. A 1.7 is fine. A 2.0 is good. A 2056 is fun. A 2270 is great. Beyond that a kit means you accept some risk and you have to know what you're doing. You're not buying an engine, you're buying parts. A longblock motor means your buying something built by someone who's been down that road more than a few times. You're buying a shortcut as well. Instead of spending 20-30 hours building a motor (how many weekends or evenings is that?) you can skip that part and get something that just needs to be installed. Then you need to tune and adjust the motor. A turnkey motor is the quickest route to getting running, but costs the most. A turnkey has been tuned and should be ready to just install and then turn they key. You're decision should be based on the money/time equation, in my opinion. Secondarily would be to buy as much motor as you can afford. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The only time HP # means anything is when your foot is all the way to the floor and the engine is at redline. Unless they've started allowing Internet access from jail, I doubt that's the way you drive. The 2270 is very driveable. Lots less shifting than the stock motor because of the torque. There's power everywhere so you just put your foot down and pass... The 2056 is in my opinion, the best all round motor for the 914 4 crowd. It costs less to build and creates a reliable and enjoyable jump in power and torque. The real power in these motors is found in the heads. I doubt the stated 140HP includes Len Hoffman and Jake Raby's LE200 heads that could and probably would add 40-50HP to that number. If you're not willing to spend the money for the 2270 with LE Series heads, build a 2056... |
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