Type 4 Store 2270, Type 4 Store 2270 Options

[lexatola]

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on the 2270 engine kit from the Type 4 store. I'm curious if anyone knows what the difference between the kit and the Raby 2270 SR. I see they each have different HP specs. Do we think this is an actual difference or just a difference in written spec? Same cam? Same Heads? Curious if this kit can make better HP than 140? Headers? Other tested and ordained cam?

I'd appreciate any input based on experience,

Best,

Alex

[VaccaRabite]

The "easy" builds won't get you to your 160HP at the wheels. But will teach you a ton about building engines, and can be done without hemmorging cash.

If you want to use webber 40s you will be building a 1911, 2056, or maybe a 2270.

A 2056 is 96mm pistons and a stock 2.0 crank. Power for this engines varies from 115-140+ (crank) depending how long you want the engine to last. ~120 with a flat torque curve really wakes up a 914 and is easily builable.

A 1911 is 96mm pistons and a stock 1.7/1.8 crank (which you already have). "Power" is similar to the 2056, but you have to rev more for it.

2270 uses 96mm pistons and a stroker crank (either from EMW or the Type 4 Store). Can make 140 to 200+ HP and equal torque figures. Awesome engine. Heat becomes more of an issue, especially if you use cast iron cylinders.... Bring money (lots).

Power (and heat - which is a big deal with an air cooled engine) will come from what cam you use, what CR you use, and how well you can tune it.

If you have access to a dtock DJet system, use it. Joe Sayre (member here) dynoed at 120+hp (crank, not wheels) from a 2056 on DJET.

In my car I have a 2056, made with parts from Jakes old store. I never got the tune right with carbs. Made a lot of power with a stock redline, but would get into heat problems on the freeway in the long PA hills. I rebuilt the heads and I'm in the process of going EFI to try and tune out the heat. I have never dynoed the engine, but in second and third gear it would push me back in my set while climbing some of the backroad hills around my home.

Again, if you are set on 160 at the wheels, go Suby. And you are going to need more tire and brakes as well.

Also, and this is ONLY my opinion. Don't use AA pistons or cylinders. I know lots of people do, and do without issue. But I think you are better served getting stock 2.0 cylinders punched out and using the 96mm Keith Black pistons (again, T4 Store or EMW).

That said, I'm an idiot that decided to tear his engine apart as soon sa I get it running in order to fix minor stuff and try things that are new. But I have learend a lot in the process. And I already have ideas about the next time I pull it apart (and I have not even gotten it back on the road from the last time I pulled it apart.... as I said, I'm an idiot. Best of not paying any attention to me....)

Zach