Body sand blasting or acid dipping |
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Body sand blasting or acid dipping |
r_towle |
Nov 4 2014, 07:45 AM
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#1
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,585 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
When prepping a car for sandblasting, what is the common thing to do with the aluminum tags in the front trunk and door pillar?
I suppose the second question would be do I acid dip the car or get it sandblasted? |
rick 918-S |
Nov 4 2014, 04:10 PM
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#2
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,473 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=230343&hl=
I would cut the longs open and do this. The only welding you would do is replacing the outer, sill and triangles. You could use eastwood encapsolator to protect the inside of the weld area. |
CptTripps |
Nov 7 2014, 09:01 AM
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#3
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:: Punch and Pie :: Group: Members Posts: 3,584 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Mentor, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=230343&hl= I would cut the longs open and do this. The only welding you would do is replacing the outer, sill and triangles. You could use eastwood encapsolator to protect the inside of the weld area. +1 for http://www.redi-coat.com/ If I had to do it over again, this is what I'd do. For $2,700....that's well worth it in my opinion. Here's what I spent to get the car that far. Media Blasting: $1,000 Epoxy Paint: $300 Stuff to coat inside of longs: $200 So I'm $1,500 into mine, and there is still likely surface rust hiding in nooks and crannies inside the longs and such. RediCoat makes sure you have a 914 that is quite literally "rust free". |
SixerJ |
Nov 8 2014, 03:25 AM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 448 Joined: 24-June 13 From: UK Member No.: 16,042 Region Association: England |
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=230343&hl= I would cut the longs open and do this. The only welding you would do is replacing the outer, sill and triangles. You could use eastwood encapsolator to protect the inside of the weld area. +1 for http://www.redi-coat.com/ If I had to do it over again, this is what I'd do. For $2,700....that's well worth it in my opinion. Here's what I spent to get the car that far. Media Blasting: $1,000 Epoxy Paint: $300 Stuff to coat inside of longs: $200 So I'm $1,500 into mine, and there is still likely surface rust hiding in nooks and crannies inside the longs and such. RediCoat makes sure you have a 914 that is quite literally "rust free". Quite possibly a stupid suggestion - why not cut open the longs, replace the heater tubes with steel tube / fixed with a silt down the tube & jubilee clips (like some exhausts). Then send it for its final bath and ecoating? You now have a 914 that does not have to be messed about with post dipping Also question for Rick / Scotty / pro body guys. Is there any special prep that has to be done to ecoat before paint? I have heard that primer does not adhere well to ecoat and you have to rub it all the way or a fair way down, that does not make sense to me as every automotive manufacture now uses ecoat and they are not going to do this. I could see you would have to key it up with scotch brite / DA etc but rubbing right down kind of defeats the whole idea of the protection - sorry for the hijack |
McMark |
Nov 9 2014, 10:47 AM
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#5
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Quite possibly a stupid suggestion - why not cut open the longs, replace the heater tubes with steel tube / fixed with a silt down the tube & jubilee clips (like some exhausts). Then send it for its final bath and ecoating? You now have a 914 that does not have to be messed about with post dipping I think I would go this route if I were to dip another car. Check out this thread to see what you're heading for. |
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