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VWTortuga336 |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None ![]() |
I'm working on stripping down my 2.0L out of my '74. I've done a top end rebuild on my '71 Type 1 engine, but am new to Type IVs and bottom end rebuilds. So, I'm looking for some advice.
So far, from what I can tell the heads on my engine look like they are still in good, re-usable condition, but the engine is seized and the cylinders are badly rusted to the pistons. At this point, would I be better off just using the BFH method to destroy the 94mm cylinders that installed now and go with 96mm's, or is there any hope in saving these? (I'm thinking there isn't) Also, there was water in the case, so what does that typically mean for internal component replacements - cam, crank, bearings, etc? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Just in the planning phase now and trying to collect as much info as possible. ![]() |
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r_towle |
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
If you cannot move it, put it on a stand, tip it side ways and fill up each piston with a good penetrating oil.
Might take days of this treatment on both sides to get it to move. You don't need, nor want to spin the crankshaft. You just want to see each piston move in the cylinder. I had one motor all seized up for a 356. It was very important to save this motor. I bought two or three gallons of penetrating oil and a large plastic tub. I submersed the motor for a week, it worked. Do that and report back. DPR sells crankshafts Elgin Camshafts bearings, seals etc can be had from lots of vendors, but don't buy any bearings until to have the case and rods inspected, cleaned up and measured by a machine shop. Rich |
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