So my 914 tried to kill me the other day, need some advice Options

[dcecc1968]

So I'm driving my 914 home in Charlotte 5:00pm rush hour traffic (down Independence Blvd for you locals) and my rpms go up to 3000. I have had this happen before but was able to lift the accelerator pedal to unstick a cable to return to normal...not so this time. I stop in a parking lot because I'm convinced the cable is stuck and holding the carb open..... not so, the cable is fully retracted. Get back in the car, then the rpms go up to 4000, then 4500 and I'm having to drive the car by braking and feathering the clutch all the way home, about 15 miles. By the time I got home, a little smoke and I could smell the clutch. I have not started it since. FYI- I have a 1.7 L with a single carb (been told its a Weber) that I have had for about a year and I have no history on the car or carb.

Two questions:
1. Is it time for a carb. rebuild? How much does a kit run? Or time for a new carb.... or switch to new carb(s).?

2. Does this mean my clutch is spent?

Photo of carb.

[ThePaintedMan]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's the choke plate. You need that wide open to see down into the carb and the throttle plates. Disconnect the little ball attachment on the linkage of the carb and see what happens, again with the engine off. Does the throttle fully return to stop smoothly?

That being said, if you go to dual carbs, most setups can utilize the stock 914 accelerator cable, complete with the *correct* crimped ferrule end. On the single carb setups like yours, that ferrule/end of the cable must cut off so you can feed it into the pivot ball attachment, which eventually causes the cable to fray. If you buy a new cable and use it on that carb, you'll have to buy another one if/when you go the dual carb route.

Might I suggest if you indeed go the dual carb route that you look at SteveGM's carb setup in the classifieds? That is a complete setup, ready to go - all you need is a new throttle cable. This is a beautiful setup and looks plug-and-play. Only needs new intake gaskets and the throttle cable.

If you want an even better solution, easy to synch and with great throttle response, look at Tangerine Racing's cable throttle linkage setup. Chris makes a phenomenal product and his setup uses the stock cable with no modifications as well.
www.tangerineracing.com

[dcecc1968]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's the choke plate. You need that wide open to see down into the carb and the throttle plates. Disconnect the little ball attachment on the linkage of the carb and see what happens, again with the engine off. Does the throttle fully return to stop smoothly?

That being said, if you go to dual carbs, most setups can utilize the stock 914 accelerator cable, complete with the *correct* crimped ferrule end. On the single carb setups like yours, that ferrule/end of the cable must cut off so you can feed it into the pivot ball attachment, which eventually causes the cable to fray. If you buy a new cable and use it on that carb, you'll have to buy another one if/when you go the dual carb route.

Might I suggest if you indeed go the dual carb route that you look at SteveGM's carb setup in the classifieds? That is a complete setup, ready to go - all you need is a new throttle cable. This is a beautiful setup and looks plug-and-play. Only needs new intake gaskets and the throttle cable.

If you want an even better solution, easy to synch and with great throttle response, look at Tangerine Racing's cable throttle linkage setup. Chris makes a phenomenal product and his setup uses the stock cable with no modifications as well.
www.tangerineracing.com

George,
Thanks for the suggestion. As you can tell, my carb knowledge (and terminology) is limited at best. Not knowing what they were called, I did already ensure the true throttle plates returned to normal position... and initially only one opens up then as the throttle increases the other opens up... I'm guessing I observe the definition of "progressive" carbs, correct?

Funny thing is I already spoke to Steve about his carb set up, but he was not sure if it was appropriate for a 1.7L engine. I've seen some threads that certain sizes (40, 36, etc.) were only appropriate for certain engines. I know you have rebuilt carbs before, what are your thoughts? Also, I noticed that Redline sells dual carb set-ups for @ $400 without the linkage bar (http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk412.htm) I'm assuming these are not "real" weber carbs or a modern knock-off. What do you know about them?

[ThePaintedMan]

George,
Thanks for the suggestion. As you can tell, my carb knowledge (and terminology) is limited at best. Not knowing what they were called, I did already ensure the true throttle plates returned to normal position... and initially only one opens up then as the throttle increases the other opens up... I'm guessing I observe the definition of "progressive" carbs, correct?

Funny thing is I already spoke to Steve about his carb set up, but he was not sure if it was appropriate for a 1.7L engine. I've seen some threads that certain sizes (40, 36, etc.) were only appropriate for certain engines. I know you have rebuilt carbs before, what are your thoughts? Also, I noticed that Redline sells dual carb set-ups for @ $400 without the linkage bar (http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk412.htm) I'm assuming these are not "real" weber carbs or a modern knock-off. What do you know about them?

Yep, that's why it's considered progressive. See, you know more than you think. The secondary comes in mechanically on the Weber 32/36 (what you have on your car). On old American carburetors you might have heard the term "vacuum secondary". Same idea - the secondary throat comes in adding more fuel and air under increased engine load, but uses vacuum signal from the intake.

Find out if Steve can give you an idea of what size venturis (chokes) are on this dual carb setup. With 40 Webers and the 1.7 you have you want 28mm venturis (usually what they have stock). He can look down into the barrels and see the number stamped on the top of them.

The Redline units are EMPI carbs - search here and you'll see that they're very hit or miss. Lots of casting problems and other issues. I've never tried them but after reading what everyone else says, I wouldn't bother.