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VWTortuga336 |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None ![]() |
I'm working on stripping down my 2.0L out of my '74. I've done a top end rebuild on my '71 Type 1 engine, but am new to Type IVs and bottom end rebuilds. So, I'm looking for some advice.
So far, from what I can tell the heads on my engine look like they are still in good, re-usable condition, but the engine is seized and the cylinders are badly rusted to the pistons. At this point, would I be better off just using the BFH method to destroy the 94mm cylinders that installed now and go with 96mm's, or is there any hope in saving these? (I'm thinking there isn't) Also, there was water in the case, so what does that typically mean for internal component replacements - cam, crank, bearings, etc? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Just in the planning phase now and trying to collect as much info as possible. ![]() |
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r_towle |
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#2
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Remove rods from crank.
Bolt the case to a long bar on the floor using the two bottom bolts at the flywheel end. Have a helper hold the case steady Use a breaker bar and a long pipe on the breaker bar. Use the flywheel bolts to rock the crankshaft back and forth. At this point your crank is most likely toast, so get it moving enough to get the case apart. Pistons and rods can be removed with the case still together, but if it is frozen, only some of them will be reachable.... You come from the opposite side to loosen the rod bolts. If you remove the Pistons....remove every case bolts also and crack the case just a hair and it should start moving. You don't want to spin the bearing in the case as this point, so only crack it a hair, just to release the tension. |
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