2.0 Engine Rebuild Advice Options

[VWTortuga336]

I'm working on stripping down my 2.0L out of my '74. I've done a top end rebuild on my '71 Type 1 engine, but am new to Type IVs and bottom end rebuilds. So, I'm looking for some advice.

So far, from what I can tell the heads on my engine look like they are still in good, re-usable condition, but the engine is seized and the cylinders are badly rusted to the pistons. At this point, would I be better off just using the BFH method to destroy the 94mm cylinders that installed now and go with 96mm's, or is there any hope in saving these? (I'm thinking there isn't) Also, there was water in the case, so what does that typically mean for internal component replacements - cam, crank, bearings, etc? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Just in the planning phase now and trying to collect as much info as possible.

[Old Yella]

Hi
I don't normally comment but thought I would on this occasion as I recently had my 2.0lt rebuilt.

I suggest you buy a complete used 2.0lt and send it straight to an engine builder. I think I am capable of building an engine but there are some issues which you will undoubtedly have to deal with, which by the time you have bull-shitted around with will cost you too much money, time and effort. here are a few things to consider.

1. The old cylinders are usually used beyond cost effective salvage.

2. The heads are prone to cracking and will need to be reconditioned at the least. new valve seats guides and exhaust valves is recommended. This was the most expensive part of my build.

3. If the crank has been moving laterally in the case, it will need align boring.

4. The builder can do all the useful mods like tap and plug the oil galleries, fit a baffle in the sump to stop oil sloshing sideways and starving your engine and check to see if the oil pump is worn out.

5. The cost of good quality parts is fairly expensive so why not just get the builder to do the build in the clean room and not in your garage.

I paid about 3600 for a complete rebuild to factory specs. The engine looks and functions like new. I had a new cam and lifters installed so I can run my D jet and all's working great. The engine build cost was about $700 of the total but I still think that's cheap as I didn't have to clean the case, get rid of all the waste and put up with the filth in the garage. I was also worried about assembling the motor myself due to the amount of dust which seems to blow into the garage off the street. last thing I needed was to introduce contaminants into the internals. The engine shop was like an operating theatre-very clean.

Now the one thing I have omitted is that I bought a new set of German Mahle NOS pistons and cylinders for 700 bucks off the Samba. They were 7.6:1 stock compression ratio. I was still very happy as I don't give a rats arse about having more power in my 914/4. I don't race and it's a daily driver so reliability is more important than the power. You can choose pistons and barrel to suit your budget but considering the time money and effort you are going through good quality ones are nice and may save you money in the future.

I had my engine done in Anaheim, you could buy one from someone over here in CA and send it to a shop. They will send the motor to you on completion. I'm not promoting any particular builder, I went to FAT because they had a good rap and I could drive there and discuss the build and drop the engine and pick it up. I didn't pay to have it dyno-ed and fitted it and all the ancillaries myself. I do know there are a couple of people on the forum who had motors for sale.


Have a good time spending a shit load of money.
Cheers