2.0 Engine Rebuild Advice Options

[VWTortuga336]

I'm working on stripping down my 2.0L out of my '74. I've done a top end rebuild on my '71 Type 1 engine, but am new to Type IVs and bottom end rebuilds. So, I'm looking for some advice.

So far, from what I can tell the heads on my engine look like they are still in good, re-usable condition, but the engine is seized and the cylinders are badly rusted to the pistons. At this point, would I be better off just using the BFH method to destroy the 94mm cylinders that installed now and go with 96mm's, or is there any hope in saving these? (I'm thinking there isn't) Also, there was water in the case, so what does that typically mean for internal component replacements - cam, crank, bearings, etc? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Just in the planning phase now and trying to collect as much info as possible.

[VWTortuga336]

I was finally able to move the crank and begin removing the pistons. I'm to the point now where I have been able to actually split the case and begin removing internals. I have a few questions:

1. I'm going to be running carbs on this engine and want to make sure I have the right cam to match. The cam that's installed looks to be in good shape, but I want to make sure it's correct. Where is the cam stamped to identify it?

2. Since there's a good chance my case is toast, due to the broken boss above the oil pickup, I'm going to attempt to reattach the broken piece, build it up, fill in the threads with JB Weld and re-tap it. I know this might not be the best, or most robust solution, but given the fact that cracking and/or breaking these on Type IV engines is very common, I'm thinking this might not be all that bad. Anyone ever tried this? Am I totally crazy for thinking this might work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) ? (Pictures below)

3. The crank has lots of surface rust, but from what I can tell (very new to Type IV, untrained eyes here) seems to be in decent shape. What should I look for to determine if it's salvageable?

[Bulldog9]

It's your time and $$, but if everything else checks out (crank, con rods, P & C's I'd just go for a good used case. The only way to repair this case would be to weld a new boss then retap. My guess is you could buy a new/used case for less than this alone nevermind al lthe other work you have to do to the case. Is it really worth it? afterall the serial # is on the fan housing.

Though I am a neub, looking at your P&C's crank, con rods, bearings in the pic, I think you are looking at sourcing a 99% new motor, wil lneed to turn the crank, new P&C, rebuild con rods, and agree with others, go buy a good used motor and start from there, or have it rebuilt. If I had it to do all over again, I would have sent my longblock to McMark and called it done. Unfortunately, I diddnt find out about that option untill I was well into the project in parts and time.

I'm building mine from scratch, but my case crank, bearings and such were pristine, just dirty oil. Crank diddnt need to be turned or anything. I did buy a 2056 P&C kit, but the rest of the core components were reuseable. I have spent over $5K on my motor just in parts, and I took my time over 2 years to buy. Granted, I had to buy carbs and went to a new distributor, but it adds up, and knowing it was RIGHT is worth a ton.

Then you have to think about your heads. If they are as bad as the rest of you rmotor, they are likely unuseable. What else was cracked/damaged as you attempted this dissasembly? if you cracked that boss, I wonder what else is cracked/damaged?

It adds up......... Here is a list of my Motor build. Dont get me wrong, I am haivng fun and understand doing it yourself, but.....it's your time and $$.

ENGINE
Reinz Engine Gasket Set
Mahle Cam Bearings
Silverline Main Bearings (steel back)
Mahle Connecting Rod Bearings
Reinze Oil filter & sump seal
96MM 2.0 PISTON & PIN - Keith Black (EMW)
96MM Cast Iron CYL - (EMW)
96MM RING SET 1.8, 2.0 K/B - Hastings
.060 CYL SHIMS
Remanufacture Heads (Hoffman)
Modified 1.7 Rocker Arms (Hoffman Modified)
Mahle-Wizemann 911 Swivel Foot Adjusters & Nuts
26MM FLAT OIL PUMP & cover
MOCAL OILSTAT SANDWICH ADAPTER with thermostat
WEBCAM EMW G CAM 287 DUR. X .430" LIFT
WEBCAM ALUMINUM CAM GEAR & Bolts
SOLID LIFTER - Scat Performance Lubealobe
CHROMOLY CUT TO FIT PUSHRODS 3/8
Oil Strainer & gasket
Viton pushrod tube seals (16)
Alternator 75Amp remanufactured Bosch
Alternator - Fanbelt
Bosch starter relay/hot start kit
Starter - Bosch Remanufactured
Spark Plug Tin Boots - OEM
Valve Covers - Aluminum Ribbed (CB Performance)
Thermostat & Cable - (Awesome powdercoat)
Sport Engine Mounts (rear/transmission) OEM
Engine Mounts (Front) - OEM
Pertronix BILLET DIST. W/IGNITOR 2
Pertronix FLAME-THROWER COIL 3.0 OHM
Pertronix WIRE SET BLK 35.00 35.00
Dellorto 36DLRA Carbs & Mounts & Jets
Air Filter Gasket, Pair
Dellorto DRLA "Anti-Whistle" Base Gasket,
SCAT Centerpull Linkage
Oil Pressure Sending Unit, Stock, 021-919-081B
VDO 80psi Oil Pressure Sending Unit, 1/8 -27 NPTF
VDO Sending Unit "T" Adapter, 1/8 - 27, V240850
12mm Nut (8mm Thread), 12 Pieces
ACN Flanged Racing Intake/Exhaust Nuts, 8 x 10m
New Cam Plug
Raby Engine nuts & bolt kit
New Tin Screws
New Con Rod Nuts
New Rocker Arm Nuts
Curil-T Engine Sealant, 75ml Tube
Curil-K2 Engine Sealant, 125ml Bottle with Brush
Machining: Case cleaned and boresited, crank mic'd polished and rotating mass balanced.

I was finally able to move the crank and begin removing the pistons. I'm to the point now where I have been able to actually split the case and begin removing internals. I have a few questions:

1. I'm going to be running carbs on this engine and want to make sure I have the right cam to match. The cam that's installed looks to be in good shape, but I want to make sure it's correct. Where is the cam stamped to identify it?

2. Since there's a good chance my case is toast, due to the broken boss above the oil pickup, I'm going to attempt to reattach the broken piece, build it up, fill in the threads with JB Weld and re-tap it. I know this might not be the best, or most robust solution, but given the fact that cracking and/or breaking these on Type IV engines is very common, I'm thinking this might not be all that bad. Anyone ever tried this? Am I totally crazy for thinking this might work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) ? (Pictures below)

3. The crank has lots of surface rust, but from what I can tell (very new to Type IV, untrained eyes here) seems to be in decent shape. What should I look for to determine if it's salvageable?