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sdoolin |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 417 Joined: 1-May 14 From: LouKY Member No.: 17,299 Region Association: None ![]() |
I have searched and read quite a bit on this topic, lots of good stuff. But I still have a couple of questions. I have a '73, with early top (as identified by a thread here). Very (very) rattly so I have a new rear seal (from 914rubber.com) that I will install.
Not trying to beat a dead horse... My question(s): What have others done with the side pieces that are too long (I assume just trim down and "bevel" to fit up with top window seal (on side)), and What have others done with respect to the side metal trim pieces that are "under" the seal on the side, and that curve around the "bulb" of the seal? It seems like trimming the "curved" bit of the metal (without the screw holes) will jst lead to possible rattles from this area and that is exactly what I am trying to avoid. ![]() |
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Mikey914 |
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#2
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The rubber man ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12,767 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
The metal will mount on top of the seal just like the OEM. Do the corners 1st. The metal is a good guide for the holes as they will not move. As far as trimming the seal. It needs to be fitted to the roof. The vertical targa seal should touch the corner of the other seal (targa to window seal), and the rear seal you have should but right up against it. Assuming that your targa to window seals are sealed correctly on the outside corner, the rear seal should end right at that joint. One of the reasons I make these longer is for a perfect fit. You will have to check before you cut as you may want to adjust the targa to window seals.
A piece of trivia for those that don't know NEVER pull the targa to window seal through the track. You may think you have compressed it back, bt rubber has memory, and if there is ANY tension, it will be relieved over time and allow the seal to "shrink" back to the manufactured length. The correct way to install is the outside edge 1st, then pop in the inner track. Also, if you need to trim a new carpet knife and some warm soapy water and you can cut it like butter. You can actually get it to seal very nicely, just shaving off a little at a time until it compresses when the latch is engaged. It makes a wonderfully tight seal at the corner. |
JimN73 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 535 Joined: 6-October 07 From: Gig Harbor Member No.: 8,192 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Mark, can you define/describe the "pop in the inner track" part? Not working so well for me.
Thanks, The metal will mount on top of the seal just like the OEM. Do the corners 1st. The metal is a good guide for the holes as they will not move. As far as trimming the seal. It needs to be fitted to the roof. The vertical targa seal should touch the corner of the other seal (targa to window seal), and the rear seal you have should but right up against it. Assuming that your targa to window seals are sealed correctly on the outside corner, the rear seal should end right at that joint. One of the reasons I make these longer is for a perfect fit. You will have to check before you cut as you may want to adjust the targa to window seals. A piece of trivia for those that don't know NEVER pull the targa to window seal through the track. You may think you have compressed it back, bt rubber has memory, and if there is ANY tension, it will be relieved over time and allow the seal to "shrink" back to the manufactured length. The correct way to install is the outside edge 1st, then pop in the inner track. Also, if you need to trim a new carpet knife and some warm soapy water and you can cut it like butter. You can actually get it to seal very nicely, just shaving off a little at a time until it compresses when the latch is engaged. It makes a wonderfully tight seal at the corner. |
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