I have searched and read quite a bit on this topic, lots of good stuff. But I still have a couple of questions. I have a '73, with early top (as identified by a thread here). Very (very) rattly so I have a new rear seal (from 914rubber.com) that I will install.

Not trying to beat a dead horse...

My question(s):
What have others done with the side pieces that are too long (I assume just trim down and "bevel" to fit up with top window seal (on side)), and

What have others done with respect to the side metal trim pieces that are "under" the seal on the side, and that curve around the "bulb" of the seal? It seems like trimming the "curved" bit of the metal (without the screw holes) will jst lead to possible rattles from this area and that is exactly what I am trying to avoid.

Click to view attachment

I'm not sure I understand the second part of your question, but I've installed 914Rubber seals on two cars without trimming any metal. No rattles, no squeaks, and no leaks.

I think he's asking at what point does he cut the excess rubber off, and where.

I don't have an answer for this question, but I'm curious to know the answer.

I'm asking more about the side metal piece(s). They are mounted between the top and the seal on the sides (it is not visible with seal installed) whereas along the rear of the roof/seal, the metal trim mounts above the seal (it is visible).

This piece has a "flat" bit (shiny in pic) and a "curved" bit (black in pic). I have read (don't have the link(s), but search for Targa Top and you'll find them) where some have trimmed the curved bit off as it tends to interfere with the new seal (not a product issue) and others have a different solution.

Just looking for ideas, I will likely trim it all to fit and just ensure it is secure and properly located during install. I suspect it will cure the rattling regardless.

The metal will mount on top of the seal just like the OEM. Do the corners 1st. The metal is a good guide for the holes as they will not move. As far as trimming the seal. It needs to be fitted to the roof. The vertical targa seal should touch the corner of the other seal (targa to window seal), and the rear seal you have should but right up against it. Assuming that your targa to window seals are sealed correctly on the outside corner, the rear seal should end right at that joint. One of the reasons I make these longer is for a perfect fit. You will have to check before you cut as you may want to adjust the targa to window seals.

A piece of trivia for those that don't know NEVER pull the targa to window seal through the track. You may think you have compressed it back, bt rubber has memory, and if there is ANY tension, it will be relieved over time and allow the seal to "shrink" back to the manufactured length.

The correct way to install is the outside edge 1st, then pop in the inner track. Also, if you need to trim a new carpet knife and some warm soapy water and you can cut it like butter. You can actually get it to seal very nicely, just shaving off a little at a time until it compresses when the latch is engaged. It makes a wonderfully tight seal at the corner.

By the way those are the old seals superseded by the ones with the flaps. may be worth putting someplace safe. If 6's get crazy expensive they are the concurs correct seal.

The last picture is the targa to window seal installed without the main targa seal in the way, to show how it should sit on the glass.

And I just noticed the short piece of metal in the picture. It goes under the seal and is glued to the seal. There is a top piece that will sandwich it. So you can dry fit and use a little glue once it's installed to hold it onto the seal. A small dash of black silicone would work well. Not required, but helps put a little more pressure against the roll bar.

I just installed mine as well. I did the sides first. I cut the ends with scissors. I followed the bolt pattern from outside in. The sticky side both helped and was a pain. My seal was shrunk lengthwise across the top so I had to rework mounting it twice adding new bolt holes through the seal. Be very careful with the trim. I did get some distortion to the chrome trim to seat the bolts. I also used new screws.

Installation on the car seemed great. Haven't tested water or wind yet, but doubt any issues due to construction.

Good luck!

Mark, can you define/describe the "pop in the inner track" part? Not working so well for me.

Thanks,

Mikey - thanks for info. I will be fitting the rear seal later this weekend, may have another question or two.

Am in the middle of wheel/axle bearings on all 4 corners...

"POP" the inner track in, I'm referring to putting the outside edge in the track 1st, and pushing the inside edge in with a screwdriver carefully. So not to scratch the chrome track. You can see from the profile why the outside has to go in 1st.