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microsa |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 94 Joined: 20-February 03 From: San Antonio, Tx Member No.: 329 ![]() |
O.K. I'm getting ready to do the 5 lug conversion on YellowDog. I have a 68 SC front end and I am going to re-drill the rear hubs. The question is what do you that have done this recommend; press in studs or bolts? If studs, where did you source them and if bolts, how long? I have a set of BBS style wheels that came off a 68 SC 'I think'. Also if I go with studs, will I need to machine a 'flat' on the back side of the hub so they seat?
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Eric_Shea |
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,304 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
It includes stock studs 45-50mm depending on how you measure them, and they do include the spacers. The machine shop may want to charge more next time through. Spacers take a lot of time.
QUOTE They are steel, not alum...just painted silver. You have M-calipers then "unless" the mounting holes are 3.5" on center. If they are then you have A-calipers and a whole bunch of parts thrown together, like a steel bar from an early car, a-arms from an early car, struts from an S, SC or S-optioned car and A-calipers from an SC. You're basically moving up to 5-lug, 18.8mm t-bars, vented rotors and M-calipers. I like that front end because it's basically a 914-6 front end. Bolts right on. It works well with stock rear calipers on 914-6 rotors with the proportioning valve taken out. It's not heavily sprung which is another plus in my book. I like to use the sway bar and a good set of shocks to make the front end perform. |
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