WTB: 320i Calipers Machined for My '74 |
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WTB: 320i Calipers Machined for My '74 |
VWTortuga336 |
Feb 25 2015, 11:36 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
Like the title says, please let me know if you have an extra set you'd like to get rid of.
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VWTortuga336 |
Feb 27 2015, 01:18 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
Only reason I am considering going the 320i route is the fact that my calipers need to be completely rebuilt. Not that I mind doing it, but I have seen instances where you can buy good, working 320i calipers for around the price of the rebuild kits for my 914 calipers (~$50-$60). Am I way off base?
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Eric_Shea |
Mar 3 2015, 12:50 AM
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#3
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,278 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Only reason I am considering going the 320i route is the fact that my calipers need to be completely rebuilt. Not that I mind doing it, but I have seen instances where you can buy good, working 320i calipers for around the price of the rebuild kits for my 914 calipers (~$50-$60). Am I way off base? You get what you pay for with a $50.00 caliper. Chinese seal kits that crack in a couple of months. This allows moisture to your bare steel bores (more on that in point #2) No finish on the caliper bodies or inside the bores (rust will come knocing soon). Pistons that are usually installed improperly. Fasteners that have no finish on them (re: rust. What could go wrong there?) They're really cheap though! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) And now you want to shave metal off the mounting ears? And you will get an ATE 19mm master cylinder for $235.00 right? Or, another chinese version for $90.00? And your factory 1.6:1 bias ratio is now shot... your rears are hardly in the mix at all. Sorry Andrew, I'm not trying to pee in the Cheerio's here, I've just been dealing with this so called upgrade for 10+ years. Just because there's a Pelican how too article on it doesn't mean it's the cats PJ's. There is a way to do it right if you want to go that route: 1. Install early model struts on your car. This will allow you to bolt on the 320 calipers without shaving metal off their mounting surfaces weakening their design. So add new struts and new rotors to your budget. 2. Install the proper ATE 19mm master cylinder to deal with the larger 48mm pistons. (the chinese ones fail) +$235.00 3. Install a cooling system for your front solid rotors. AJ USA Scoops are only a couple hundred bucks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) 4. Install 914-6 rear calipers (around $1,599-1,799 per pair) if you want a hand brake and a proper bias ratio again or, install 1969-1983 911 rear caliper without the spacers in the rear. If you go the later route you will need to find a "mechanical" handbrake solution (not a hydro-lock) or you will be in violation of most state laws (unless it's a racecar... yes you George) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) If you install a 38mm piston in the rear (the calipers I suggested) you will once again retain the proper factory bias ratio (and no, it's not a proportioning valve, it's a pressure regulator... don't take it out like every internet genius suggests). Off soapbox. Just get your 914 front calipers working and get some of this milleniums killer pad compounds and you should be good to go. Where art thou racing anyway? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Kansas 914 |
Mar 3 2015, 09:17 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,999 Joined: 1-March 03 From: Durango, Colorado Member No.: 373 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Knowing what I know now I would gladly trade my BMW calipers for 914 calipers.. |
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