Like the title says, please let me know if you have an extra set you'd like to get rid of.

I purchased a set of rebuilt 320i calipers from NAPA, and he took my old 914 front calipers in exchange. Make sure they are ATE. Then take them to a machine shop and have them mill the calipers. I gave them the Pelican Tech article so they understood what I wanted.

How much did the machine shop charge you to do this work?

Local guy did mine for $40... but bitched and moaned about having to make a jig for the caliper half.


That being said, it's not really worth the hassle unless you're planning to track the car or something. Have Eric at PMB Performance rebuild your stock calipers and I guarantee you'll have enough to lock the tires up. I only did mine because I wanted a bigger heat sink.

Only reason I am considering going the 320i route is the fact that my calipers need to be completely rebuilt. Not that I mind doing it, but I have seen instances where you can buy good, working 320i calipers for around the price of the rebuild kits for my 914 calipers (~$50-$60). Am I way off base?

I got front rebuild kits for ~ $18.

If they need to be completely rebuilt, then they need to be sent to Eric. He does the same thing that the factory did, plating the caliper body which keeps you from having a piston seized in the bore. If you rebuild your own or buy aftermarket calipers, the plating is likely long gone, allowing the water that eventually forms in the brake fluid to rust the bore and voila, seized pistons.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/brakehowto.html

Up to you though.

I wouldn't skimp. What's more important than the front brakes on your car.

the only other thing I can think of is the master cylinder.... but we all know the story of how at least one person felt like it was okay to cheap out in that area.

I'm really not trying to skimp, I just think I might as well "upgrade" (I know this is very debatable) to 320i calipers for a fraction of what it will cost for Eric to do my fronts.

I'm planning on having him do my rear calipers, so hopefully this proves I'm not a total cheap ass


All that said, I'd still like to find a pair of 320i calipers ready to bolt on to my '74 front end

Understood. Keep in mind that any "new" calipers at Napa, etc are indeed rebuilt. And when they rebuild them they strip them of all plating. If you're having Eric do your rears, you may consider sending any 320 calipers you find to him anyway to at least have him plate them. You can put them back together by yourself. This is on my list of things to do before our next race actually.

You get what you pay for with a $50.00 caliper.

Chinese seal kits that crack in a couple of months. This allows moisture to your bare steel bores (more on that in point #2)
No finish on the caliper bodies or inside the bores (rust will come knocing soon).
Pistons that are usually installed improperly.
Fasteners that have no finish on them (re: rust. What could go wrong there?)

They're really cheap though!

And now you want to shave metal off the mounting ears? And you will get an ATE 19mm master cylinder for $235.00 right? Or, another chinese version for $90.00? And your factory 1.6:1 bias ratio is now shot... your rears are hardly in the mix at all.

Sorry Andrew, I'm not trying to pee in the Cheerio's here, I've just been dealing with this so called upgrade for 10+ years. Just because there's a Pelican how too article on it doesn't mean it's the cats PJ's.

There is a way to do it right if you want to go that route:

1. Install early model struts on your car. This will allow you to bolt on the 320 calipers without shaving metal off their mounting surfaces weakening their design. So add new struts and new rotors to your budget.
2. Install the proper ATE 19mm master cylinder to deal with the larger 48mm pistons. (the chinese ones fail) +$235.00
3. Install a cooling system for your front solid rotors. AJ USA Scoops are only a couple hundred bucks.
4. Install 914-6 rear calipers (around $1,599-1,799 per pair) if you want a hand brake and a proper bias ratio again or, install 1969-1983 911 rear caliper without the spacers in the rear. If you go the later route you will need to find a "mechanical" handbrake solution (not a hydro-lock) or you will be in violation of most state laws (unless it's a racecar... yes you George)

If you install a 38mm piston in the rear (the calipers I suggested) you will once again retain the proper factory bias ratio (and no, it's not a proportioning valve, it's a pressure regulator... don't take it out like every internet genius suggests).

Off soapbox.

Just get your 914 front calipers working and get some of this milleniums killer pad compounds and you should be good to go. Where art thou racing anyway?

Knowing what I know now I would gladly trade my BMW calipers for 914 calipers..

Thanks a lot for all the great info Eric. No cheerios peed in here; I really am open to any/all suggestions that lead me to making the right choice (especially when it comes to safety). You’re right, I was basing my decision on the PP article, which did make it seem like this conversion was the cat's PJs. Everything you point out I haven't even considered, which sounds like would have been a really bad thing.

I'll keep my stock calipers. Thanks everyone for all their great input and for helping me realize I was about to make the wrong move!

Funny how all it takes sometimes is the right person to chime in and then everyone listens.


I've still got a long way to go to reach that status.


Anyhow, good decision. It will pay off. And if you ever sell the car you can use it as a selling point - Eric's PMB Brakes, a Jake Raby engine, a Chris Foley exhaust, etc.