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thomasotten |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,565 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 ![]() |
I just ordered my spray gun. I chose a Divilbiss G670 gun. This is a new technology gun that claims to be perfect for low air consumption. This may be the ideal gun for us do it at home types - I have a 30 gal. sears compressor. It is rated for 9cfm @ 30 psi.
Technically, it is not classified as an HVLP gun, but it offers the same benefits such as > 65% transfer effeciency. paid $275. Anyone else paint their own? (IMG:http://www.spraygunworld.com/Database/DEV/GFG670.jpg) |
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thomasotten |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,565 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 ![]() |
I shot primer/sealer, then base coat, then clear. It comes with three tips: 1.2, 1.3, & 1.4. So you should be able to shoot whatever you want. Now, I did have to sand the clear and buff to cut down the orange peel, but I think that is common practice. Besides, when you buff it it shines a heck of a lot more. For the trunk that you want to do, I think it won't be so hard to get it done without buffing. I find that I can shoot smaller areas much easier than say a whole hood. You know, there is a lot of stretching going on when doing large surfaces. You get tired. The way I look at it is like this: I plan on painting the whole car. If, when I am ready to paint the whole car, if I am still not good enough, I know I will be good enough to at least paint the trunks, wheel wells, engine bay, door jams, etc. Just shooting that alone will save me a heck of a lot of money over having a pro do it. Plus, are they really going to spend the time necessary to really get in their and make sure they hit every nook and cranny?
My only thing that I really need to improve on is the "dusting" technique for the final coat of base metallic. Other than that, I am good to go. |
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