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thomasotten |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,565 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 ![]() |
I just ordered my spray gun. I chose a Divilbiss G670 gun. This is a new technology gun that claims to be perfect for low air consumption. This may be the ideal gun for us do it at home types - I have a 30 gal. sears compressor. It is rated for 9cfm @ 30 psi.
Technically, it is not classified as an HVLP gun, but it offers the same benefits such as > 65% transfer effeciency. paid $275. Anyone else paint their own? (IMG:http://www.spraygunworld.com/Database/DEV/GFG670.jpg) |
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TBrads914/6 |
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#2
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 16 Joined: 22-April 04 From: Lexington, KY Member No.: 1,963 ![]() |
The purpose of dusting is to get the metalic to stay close to the surface and get an even finish - no "tiger stripes." On your last wet coat, pull you gun back - maybe 24" - and make some fast passes over what you just painted. It should melt in and the metalic stay to the top. The idea is not to put a lot of paint on, just a light dry coat over the wet one. Before you get that far, try to keep the paint even by watching the paint going on and controling your speed and distance from the panel your spraying. You have to develop the eye to read the paint. You'll know if your getting an even coat. Over lap your previous pass by 50% but watch out for other overlap areas such as flared areas around the wheels, character lines in panels, or where you meet panels that you've already sprayed. Keep you air cap parallel with the surface that you are spraying. Don't arc of fan your passes. Check you fan pattarn and make sure it is smooth and even before you start. Check your gun setting on some masking paper. Make sure it is smooth and the fluid delivery is set to what your comfortable with. If you have any questions, drop me an email. Sometimes I don't get to check out all the topics. I'll try to give ya what pointers I know.
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