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914Sixer |
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#1
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,124 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I found these on Ebay for $49.99. Thinking of going this way and not having to mess with the shift coupler again. Has anybody tried these yet?
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Tom |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None ![]() |
I agree with bdstone, a shop vise, socket, and bolt are sufficient and easy to use to do this job.
Brass bushing in this position needs to be snug in the coupler while the pin needs to be snug in the coupler and have a slight clearance in the brass bushing. There does need to be slight movement of the coupler pin in the bushing. I chose Delrin when I replaced mine years ago. Main reason was I could not get any oillight material. Oillight looks like brass with a dull finish, but is impregnated with a lubricant. Many years ago many manufacturers used oillight as bushings but changed to Delrin about 20 years ago. Hardly ever see any oillight bushings anymore. I probably spelled oillight incorrectly. Tom |
BeatNavy |
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#3
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Certified Professional Scapegoat ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,951 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
I agree with bdstone, a shop vise, socket, and bolt are sufficient and easy to use to do this job. That's how I did it, but I can say for me, at least, it was a biatch. Mine was pretty well rusted together and didn't want to budge even after soaking the entire assembly in PB Blaster for several days and using a cheater bar on the vice. Maybe I'm the only one that's found that difficult (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Maybe I should have tried a little tenderness... |
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