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| relentless |
Aug 20 2015, 08:17 PM
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 350 Joined: 1-April 07 From: Oregon Member No.: 7,636 |
I took out my '76 and while driving I could tell there was some additional drag when I depressed the clutch pedal. I pulled over and felt the wheels, and found the driver's side rear was much warmer than the other three. So, after filling with E-free gas, I drove home and put her up on blocks.
I took the rear wheels off first, and found the driver's side rotor and caliper were essentially seized - I couldn't turn the rotor at all. Since the car is almost 40 years old, and in terrific condition otherwise, I placed an order with PMB Performance for a complete brake replacement. I started by cleaning the wheel wells that had decades of dirt. Here is what the rear looked like: Attached thumbnail(s) |
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| relentless |
Sep 22 2015, 01:49 PM
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 350 Joined: 1-April 07 From: Oregon Member No.: 7,636 |
I kept drawing out old brake fluid and topping the car's brake fluid reservoir up with the DOT 4 fluid I purchased from PMB. I like the Eastwood brake bleeder's vacuum gauge as it ensured I had good vacuum while I did this operation.
Once I was satisfied that I had new clean fluid coming out I used the technique on the PMB tech page to ensure I had all the air out of the lines. I put a 7mm spanner on the bleed valve first. Then I taped another section of the clear 3/16" ID vinyl line to the car in several places and ran the line to the bleed valve. Be sure the line extends higher than the car's brake fluid reservoir! I cracked the valve open and watched while the fluid rose in the line until it reached the height of the car's fluid reservoir. I used a rubber mallet to tap on the new caliper to ensure any air trapped in the caliper would be released. I was happy to see there were no air bubbles rising in the vinyl line and once I had verified that I had the air out of the line I closed the bleed valve and after draining the fluid in the vinyl line moved on to the driver's side rear caliper. Same procedure for the front, starting on the passenger's side and finishing on the driver's side. A couple other notes: I taped over the caliper to ensure no brake fluid could drip onto the new pads. I also used a lot of paper towels stuffed below the bleed valve so any fluid that might weep from the threads of the bleed valve would be sopped up. Be careful that you don't get any brake fluid on your paint - brake fluid will eat paint! Attached thumbnail(s) |
relentless New Brakes Aug 20 2015, 08:17 PM
mikedsilva that wheel arch is amazingly clean! Aug 20 2015, 08:26 PM
relentless The other side.
I used some of Eastwood's C... Aug 20 2015, 08:41 PM
relentless
The other side.
I used some of Eastwood's ... Aug 20 2015, 08:50 PM
simonjb Looks great!
What brand/color/type of paint d... Jan 5 2017, 11:31 AM
relentless Strange, I'm getting redundant pix and not in ... Aug 20 2015, 08:55 PM
relentless
Strange, I'm getting redundant pix and not in... Aug 21 2015, 01:38 PM
relentless The disc guards were powdercoated mirror black.
... Aug 21 2015, 01:46 PM
relentless The same steps were used for the front of the car.... Aug 21 2015, 01:57 PM
Cairo94507 Nice work. That is the way to keep these cars loo... Aug 21 2015, 03:34 PM
relentless Thanks Cairo94507. Today I took delivery of the r... Aug 21 2015, 06:58 PM
relentless Here is the Eastwood vacuum device I used to bleed... Sep 22 2015, 01:32 PM
draganc I don't care about the brake job, I want to kn... Sep 22 2015, 05:36 PM
JawjaPorsche Thank you for posting. Always learn something fro... Sep 22 2015, 06:09 PM
Eric_Shea You really did a great job! Sep 22 2015, 06:58 PM
relentless Here's what the workshop manual says about adj... Sep 29 2015, 10:47 AM
stugray
Here's what the workshop manual says about ad... Jan 6 2017, 01:27 PM![]() ![]() |
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